English Budgies For Sale

My English Budgies  /  Hand-Fed Babies
My babies are from selective high quality bloodlines. (About My English Budgies) Sometimes the photos below do not really do the birds justice. Every baby is beautiful and has its very own personality. They are used to being around children and small dogs.  Breeding ethics are #1 in my aviary! I recommend keeping all babies in a Birdie Playpen for the first few months. Buying from a responsible breeder can make the difference in a bird that lives 4 years compared to 20. Ask questions and know who you are buying from About  Me  After all you are buying a baby that you expect to have with your family for many years. Don’t take short cuts with your selection of bird or breeder.  Contact me with any questions by phone or email.
~ Thanks, Sean
Note:  My English Budgies are from ABS show lines and do not have ANY American Budgie bred into them whatsoever. These are high quality English Bloodlines being sold as pets.
About My English Budgies
Bird# Click – Photo Description Price

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when I add new babies to the website.

English Show Budgie
Photo #2 #3 #4
   Female English Show Budgie
Grey Cinnamon
CoParented   / Hatched
(spring 2014  4-10-14)
Ready for pick up now or ship around 12-13-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?


Beautiful Large English Budgies From Quality Show Stock

English Show Budgie
Photo #2
   Female English Show Budgie
Grey Cinnamon
CoParented   / Hatched
(spring 2014)
Ready for pick up now or ship around 11-1-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?

Fergus D
Beautiful Large English Budgies From Quality Show Stock

English Show Budgie
Photo #2 #3
   Male English Show Budgie
Grey Green
 (approx 6mths old)
Parent Raised  / Hatched 2-10-14
Ready for pick up now or ship around 9-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?

Sandy Y
Beautiful Large English Budgies From Quality Show Stock

English Show Budgie
Photo #2 #3
   Female English Show Budgie
Sky Blue
CoParented   / Hatched 6-21-14
Ready for pick up now or ship around 9-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?

Sandy Y

A beautiful color, very sweet baby girl.
English Show Budgie
Photo #2
   Female English Show Budgie
Austrian Banded Cinnamon Pied (baby)
CoParented   / Hatched
(summer 2014)
Ready for pick up now or ship around 9-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?

Suzanne R
Beautiful Large English Budgies From Quality Show Stock
English Show Budgie
Photo #2
   Male English Show Budgie
Sky Blue Cinnamon
CoParented   / Hatched 7-6-14
Ready for pick up now or ship around 9-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?

Anita T

English Show Budgie
Photo #2 VIDEO
   Male English Show Budgie
Sky Blue Cinnamon
CoParented   / Hatched 7-4-14
Ready for pick up now or ship around 9-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?
Caroline R
English Show Budgie
Photo #2
   Male English Show Budgie
Austrian Banded Pied (Dominant) 
CoParented   / Hatched 7-7-14
Ready for pick up now or ship around 10-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?

Alice F
English Show Budgie    Male English Show Budgie
Sky Blue
(2.5 years)
Proven Stud Breeder / Hatched 2011
Ready for pick up now or ship around 10-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?

Robert M
This is one of my proven male breeders. He is one beautiful bird. He is a proven father , he is a good breeder that does not pick his babies or crack eggs. There is nothing at all wrong with this breeder, It is just getting close to my 3 year cut off age so I have decided to go ahead and list him on the website this fall. I will set him up to breed this fall season if he has not sold by the end of this month.
English Show Budgie
Photo #2
   Male English Show Budgie
Lt Green Normal
Parent Raised  / Hatched 2-17-14
Ready for pick up now or ship around 10-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?
Alex L
English Show Budgie
Photo #2
   Male English Show Budgie
Austrian Banded Cobalt Pied (Dominant)
CoParented   / Hatched 7-2-14
Ready for pick up now or ship around 10-6-14
Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?
Alice F

   ? English Budgie  / Budgerigar

/ Hatched
Ready for pick up now or ship around  ??  *more info

Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video

About My English Budgies   Can they talk?


Buy Now
Or Send



   ? English Budgie  / Budgerigar

/ Hatched
Ready for pick up now or ship around  ??  *more info

Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?



Buy Now
Or Send



   ? English Budgie  / Budgerigar

/ Hatched
Ready for pick up now or ship around  ??  *more info

Contact Me   3 Year Guarantee  $79 Shipping
I can ship up to 4 budgies for no extra shipping charge
Watch my shipping video
About My English Budgies   Can they talk?



Buy Now
Or Send



Can Budgies Talk?  Yes they are one of the best talking birds in the world.  Check out this adorable video!

About My English Budgies:  top of page Top of page
 I am very proud of my English Show Budgies, the bloodline was selected from one of the top English Budgie Show Breeders in the country. This bloodlines family tree has won countless championships and trophies over the past years. They are all bred directly from quality show bloodlines for health, composure and calm personalities.
For the health of my birds and my aviary I do not expose my birds to the bird shows or exhibitions, I sell my budgies as pets. However, these are all capable of producing quality champion show birds. My English Budgies are from ABS show lines and do not have ANY American Budgie bred into them whatsoever. These are pure English Bloodlines.
English show budgies generally have a more sweet and laid back personality that you don’t normally find in standard American budgies. Even my completely untamed English breeding pairs will not bite me when I handle them. Hundreds of years of selective breeding for calm personality, health and for showing exhibitions causes them to be generally more laid back, calm and very easy to tame.

Parent Raised: top of page Top of page

Means that the parents raised the baby. The baby was not handfed. English budgies are calm and so very easy to tame by their own nature that it is very common to allow the parents to raise the babies to assure they get all of the natural probiotics that is offered from the parents feeding.

CoParented – Co-Raised: top of page Top of page

Means that the parents and myself both raised the baby. The baby was handled every day from the nestbox. This allows the baby to be calm and used to a persons touch. English budgies are calm and so very easy to tame by their own nature that it is very common to allow the parents to raise the babies to assure they get all of the natural probiotics that is offered from the parents feeding. From time to time I do handfeed a few select babies, However it is just not necessary since they are so calm by their own nature.  Top of page

Male or Female?  top of page Top of page
English Budgies are for the most part easy to tell male from female. However when they are very young as with some of the babies I have available mistakes can be made. The color of the ceres (the birds nose) will change as the bird gets older. Normally I am correct most of the time, However, I can not guarantee the sex of the bird without DNA feather testing.  Top of page

The color of the cere (the area containing the nostrils) differs between the sexes, being royal blue in males, pale brown to white (nonbreeding) or brown (breeding) in females, and pink in immatures of both sexes (usually of a more even purplish-pink color in young males). Some female budgerigars develop brown cere only during breeding time, which later returns to the normal color. Young females can often be identified by a subtle, chalky whiteness that starts around the nostrils. Males that are either Albino, Lutino, Dark-eyed Clear or Recessive Pied (Danish-pied or harlequin) always retain the immature purplish-pink cere colour their entire lives.

It is usually easy to tell the sex of a budgerigar over six months old, mainly by the cere colors, but behaviors and head shape also help indicate sex.

A mature male’s cere is usually light to dark blue, but can be purplish to pink in some particular color mutations, such as Dark-eyed Clears, Danish Pieds (Recessive Pieds) and Inos, which usually display much rounder heads. Males are typically cheerful, extroverted, highly flirtatious, peacefully social, and very vocal.Top of page

Females’ ceres are pinkish as immatures and switch from being beigish or whitish outside breeding condition into brown (often with a ‘crusty’ texture) in breeding condition and usually display flattened backs of heads (right above the nape region). Females are typically highly dominant and more socially intolerant. When females get older, their ceres tend to be brown usually, females are often more bossy and rude with their own gender, but with males they get along better; usually when budgies of different gender are put together, they tend to be more kind to each other, some will not even fight or peck at each other for their life time.

Again – I can not guarantee the sex of the bird without DNA feather testing

top of page Top of page

I Practice Abundance Weaning 100% of the Time.      top of page Top of pageReady To Go Dates:
The ready to go dates are not guaranteed for babies under 10 weeks of age. Normally I am very good at guessing when the babies will be ready to go, However, because I do practice the abundance weaning process I am sometimes wrong by a few days up to a week. Each little baby is allowed to eat formula until it no longer wants it. This is the most responsible way of handfeeding the babies.

Definition of Abundance Weaning: The phrase “abundance weaning” describes the way that most reputable bird breeders wean the baby birds that they hand feed. In abundance weaning, the breeders continue to give the chicks handfeedings while offering them solid foods to try, such as millet and softened pellets. The birds are allowed to stay on handfeedings until they themselves decide that they are ready to eat solid foods and drink water on their own. Most breeders agree that abundance weaning techniques lead to birds with more stable physical and psychological health. Because of this some babies actually end up taking formula up to 8 or maybe even 9 weeks old. However most babies wean around 7 weeks of age.  Abundance Weaning is the most healthy way to wean your baby bird.  top of page Top of page

My Shipping Information Page – Click Here
Quick Video of my Shipping Playpens –

Winter Months: I have not had any issues with shipping in the winter. The airlines keep the babies in climate controlled areas at all times and the cargo office is heated. Also I include a small disposable heater in the shipping playpen when needed with each baby to keep it nice and warm for the short trip. I have been shipping for several years now in the winter and the summer months & could not be happier with the Pet Safe shipping program. top of page Top of page

My Next Delivery Dates Will Be
May 27th thru June 2nd
I ship twice each month   ( every 2 weeks )
Shipping FAQ Page


top of page Top of page

Price:   top of page Top of page

These prices reflect the hard work and proper nutrition my birds have received, My prices are also based on the quality of the bloodline I have developed over many years of breeding only strong healthy hand selected breeder birds. I have also included an unheard of 3 year guarantee for each baby sold. I have researched prices across the internet and believe that I offer a very honest price for the quality of bird you will receive. My prices are in the middle of what most national breeders are charging. For example if the high price going rate is around 300.00 and the low price going rate is around 200.00 I price my birds someplace in the middle of the national average. Prices are also based on availability and rare (hard to find) colors.top of page Top of page  

Please take an extra 10 seconds to add me as a on FaceBook. This helps my babies find homes and gives you instant updates on news and new babies. I am grateful for each person that has taken the time to do this.

 English Budgie Care and Information
“The Best Little Bird In The World”

Website Last Updated – 
Wednesday, November 21, 2018

HOME   Babies for Sale   Waiting List  About Me   Contact Me

* About English Budgerigars * Diet – Seed – Foods * Baby Budgies For Sale
* LIVE Budgie Cam Video  Live Now * Harmful & Poisons * Breeding English Budgerigars
* Life Span  * Apple Cider Vinegar * Handfeeding Food
* Anatomy and physiology  * Colors – mutations * Handfeeding Information

* Emergency Handfeeding
* Vision  * Teaching Budgerigars To Talk * Egg Incubation & Hatch Info
* Ecology  * English Budgie BITING Stage * English Budgie Egg Laying/egg binding info
* Etymology * Leg Banding  (how to & why ) * Nesting Breeder Boxes
* Aviculture * Wing Clipping  & How to clip * Avian Medications
* Sexing a English Budgies * Spectrum Lighting * Teflon Toxicity   ( important info )
* Housing / Cage * Articles – Resources – Links * Health – Diseases – Illness
* CONTACT ME – Email * Splayed Legs Info

Copyright use policy

* Abundance Weaning * Splayed Legs Treatment

Some Photos Courtesy of: Google images search

Budgerigar Associations , Clubs and Membership Sites Click Here
Visit my Audio Blog, Podcast Site – Weekly talks about aviary breeding issues.    VISIT NOW
Egg Binding / Egg Bonded:  Prevention Help, Causes and Treatment Videos   View Details
How do birds sleep standing on one leg / How does a birds foot work?  View Details

  – NEW –   Budgie Documentary Video

I recommend a Birdie Play Pen for all new babies  View Details
Why does the tame English Budgie start biting you?    View Details
Wing Clipping – Should I clip my English Budgerigars wings?   #1 View Details #2 View Details #3 How to clip
Should I cover my English Budgerigars cage at night or sleep time?  View Details
10 Things your bird needs from you  View Details
10 top bird killers and reasons for death?  View Details
What questions to ask when looking for a bird Vet   View Details
NEVER Let anyone trim your birds beak unless they are a VET – Many birds have died from a heart attack as a result.
Beware of Reynolds oven cooking bags!!!   Reports are out that they put off fumes that can kill your birds
To add an article, information or photo  →            Contribute
English Show Budgerigars     English Budgerigars  
Caution & Note:
None of the information on this page is a substitute for veterinary care.

Web Page Resources: I put together this web page full of information from online resources in hopes of helping you find information that will help you understand and properly care for your bird. It is not meant to replace the expertise and experience of a professional veterinarian. If you suspect your bird is sick do not use the information presented here to make decisions about your bird’s health. If your pet is showing signs of illness or you notice changes in your bird’s behavior, take your bird to the nearest veterinarian or an emergency pet clinic as soon as possible!
Thank you for visiting my site, Sean Ira

  About English Budgerigars :
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

The budgerigar (Melopsittacus undulatus), also known as common pet parakeet or shell parakeet and informally nicknamed the budgie, is a small, long-tailed, seed-eating parrot. Budgerigars are the only species in the Australian genus Melopsittacus, and are found wild throughout the drier parts of Australia where the species has survived harsh inland conditions for the last five million years. Budgerigars are naturally green and yellow with black, scalloped markings on the nape, back, and wings, but have been bred in captivity with colouring in blues, whites, yellows, greys, and even with small crests. Budgerigars are popular pets around the world due to their small size, low cost, and ability to mimic human speech. The origin of the budgerigar’s name is unclear. The species was first recorded in 1805, and today is the most popular pet in the world after the domesticated dog and cat.

The budgerigar is closely related to the lories and the fig parrots. They are one of the parakeet species, a non-taxonomical term that refers to any of a number of small parrots with long, flat and tapered tails. In both captivity and the wild, budgerigars breed opportunistically and in pairs.

Evolutionary history

The budgerigar has been thought to be the link between the genera Neophema and Pezoporus based on the barred plumage.However, recent phylogenetic studies using DNA sequences place the budgerigar very close to the lories (tribe Loriini) and the fig parrots (tribe Cyclopsittini). Top of page

Anatomy and physiology of English Budgerigars: 
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Wild budgerigars average 18 cm (7 in) long, weigh 30–40 grams (1.1–1.4 oz), and display a light green body colour (abdomen and rumps), while their mantles (back and wing coverts) display pitch-black mantle markings (blackish in fledgelings and immatures) edged in clear yellow undulations. The forehead and face is yellow in adults but with blackish stripes down to the cere (nose) in young individuals until they change into their adult plumage around three to four months of age. They display small, purple cheek patches and a series of three black spots across each side of their throats (called throat spots). The two outermost throat spots are situated at the base of each cheek patch. The tail is cobalt (dark-blue); and outside tail feathers display central yellow flashes. Their wings have greenish-black flight feathers and black coverts with yellow fringes along with central yellow flashes, which only become visible in flight or when the wings are outstretched. Bills are olive grey and legs blueish-grey, with zygodactyl toes.

Budgerigars in their natural habitat in Australia are noticeably smaller than those in captivity. This particular parrot species has been bred in many other colours and shades in captivity (e.g. blue, grey, grey-green, pieds, violet, white, yellow-blue), although they are mostly found in pet stores in blue, green, and yellow. Like most parrot species, budgerigar plumage fluoresces under ultraviolet light. This phenomenon is possibly related to courtship and mate selection. The upper half of their beaks is much taller than the bottom half and covers the bottom when closed. The beak does not protrude much, due to the thick, fluffy feathers surrounding it, giving the appearance of a downward-pointing beak that lies flat against the face. The upper half acts as a long, smooth cover, while the bottom half is just about a half-sized cup-piece. These beaks allow the birds to eat plants, fruits, and vegetables. The beak of a budgerigar can clamp tighter than most other birds, keeping food or nesting supplies from falling out of its hold. 

Sexing English Budgerigars:
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

The color of the cere (the area containing the nostrils) differs between the sexes, being royal blue in males, pale brown to white (nonbreeding) or brown (breeding) in females, and pink in immatures of both sexes (usually of a more even purplish-pink color in young males). Some female budgerigars develop brown cere only during breeding time, which later returns to the normal colour. Young females can often be identified by a subtle, chalky whiteness that starts around the nostrils. Males that are either Albino, Lutino, Dark-eyed Clear or Recessive Pied (Danishpied or harlequin) always retain the immature purplish-pink cere colour their entire lives.

It is usually easy to tell the sex of a budgerigar over six months old, mainly by the cere colours, but behaviours and head shape also help indicate sex.

A mature male’s cere is usually light to dark blue, but can be purplish to pink in some particular colour mutations, such as Dark-eyed Clears, Danish Pieds (Recessive Pieds) and Inos, which usually display much rounder heads. Males are typically cheerful, extroverted, highly flirtatious, peacefully social, and very vocal.

Females’ ceres are pinkish as immatures and switch from being beigish or whitish outside breeding condition into brown (often with a ‘crusty’ texture) in breeding condition and usually display flattened backs of heads (right above the nape region). Females are typically highly dominant and more socially intolerant. When females get older, their ceres tend to be brown usually, females are often more bossy and rude with their own gender, but with males they get along better; usually when budgies of different gender are put together, they tend to be more kind to each other, some will not even fight or peck at each other for their life time. 

Vision of the English Budgerigars:
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Like many birds, budgerigars have tetrachromatic colour vision, but all four classes of cone cells operating simultaneously requires the full spectrum provided by sunlight. The ultraviolet spectrum brightens their feathers to attract mates. The throat spots in budgerigars reflect UV and can be used to distinguish individual birds. 

Ecology of the English Budgerigars: 
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Budgerigars are nomadic birds found in open habitats, primarily in scrublands, open woodlands, and grasslands of Australia. The birds are normally found in small flocks, but can form very large flocks under favorable conditions. The nomadic movement of the flocks is tied to the availability of food and water. Drought can drive flocks into more wooded habitat or coastal areas. They feed on the seeds of spinifex, grass seeds, and sometimes ripening wheat.

Naturalised feral budgerigars have been recorded since the 1940s in the St. Petersburg, Florida, area of the United States, but are much less common now than they were in the early 1980s. Increased competition from European starlings and house sparrows is thought to be the primary cause of the population decline. 

Etymology of the English Budgerigars: 
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Alternative common names include shell parrot, warbling grass parakeet, canary parrot, zebra parrot, flight bird, scallop parrot and the alternate spellings budgerygah and betcherrygah.Although more applicable to members of the genus Agapornis, the name lovebird has been applied to them from their habit of mutual preening.

Several possible origins for the English name “budgerigar” have been proposed:

A mispronunciation or alteration of Gamilaraay gidjirrigaa possibly influenced by the Australian slang word “budgery”, meaning “good”.
Similarly, from gijirragaa from the Yuwaalaraay. The nomadic nature of Australia’s aboriginals would lend itself to forming common linguistic references, and since none had any written language, differences in pronunciation and the presentation thereof are subjective within the constructs of Western hearing.
A compound of “budgery”, “good” and gar “cockatoo”. The word “budgery”, also spelt “boojery”, was formerly in use in Australian English slang meaning “good”.
The budgerigar was first described by George Shaw in 1805, and given its current binomial name by John Gould in 1840. The genus name Melopsittacus comes from Greek and means “melodious parrot”. The species name undulatus is Latin for “undulated” or “wave-patterned”. Gould noted the term betcherrygah was used by indigenous people of the Liverpool plains in New South Wales. While many references mention “good” as part of the meaning, and a few specify “good bird”, it is quite possible that reports by those local to the region are more accurate in specifying the direct translation as “good food”. There are apocryphal reports that this could also translate as “tasty treat”, implying they were eaten by the aboriginals. However, it is more likely the name derived from their migratory nature. With seasonal changes that left parts of the Liverpool plains barren, they would move to areas with residual water, that still produced the seeds they sought. By following the birds, the aboriginals could locate water, and also other game and food plants. Thus, the birds could lead them to “good food”. 

Aviculture – Breeders and the keeping of budgies:
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets   

The budgerigar has been bred in captivity since the 1850s. Breeders have worked to produce a variety of colour, pattern, and feather mutations, including albino, blue, cinnamon-ino (lacewinged), clearwinged, crested, dark, greywinged, opaline, pieds, spangled, dilute (suffused), and violet.

English or “show” budgerigars are about twice as large as their wild counterparts, and with a larger size and puffier head feathers have a boldly exaggerated look. The eyes and beak can be almost totally obscured by these fluffy head feathers. English budgerigars are typically more expensive than wild-type birds, and have shorter life span of about seven to nine years. Breeders of English budgerigars often exhibit their birds at animal shows. Most captive budgerigars in the pet trade are more similar in size and body conformation to wild budgerigars.

Budgerigars are social animals and require stimulation in the shape of toys and interaction with humans or with other budgerigars. Budgerigars, and especially females, will chew material such as wood. When a budgerigar feels threatened, it will try to perch as high as possible and to bring its feathers close against its body in order to appear thinner.

Tame budgerigars can be taught to speak, whistle, and play with humans. Both males and females sing and can learn to mimic sounds and words and do simple tricks, but singing and mimicry are more pronounced and better perfected in males. Females rarely learn to mimic more than a dozen words. Males can easily acquire vocabularies ranging from a few dozen to a hundred words. Pet males, especially those kept alone, are generally the best speakers.

Budgerigars will chew on anything they can find to keep their beaks trimmed. Mineral blocks (ideally enriched with iodine), cuttlebone, and soft wooden pieces are suitable for this activity. In captivity 

Life Span of English Budgerigars:
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Budgerigars live an average of five to eight years, but life spans of 15–20 years have been reported and are becoming more common now. The life span depends on breed, lineage, and health, being highly influenced by exercise and diet. Budgerigars have been known to cause “bird fancier’s lung” in sensitive people, a type of hypersensitivity pneumonitis.

Colors – mutations of English Budgerigars: 
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

A full section on budgie color mutations is coming soon.

All captive budgerigars are divided into two basic series of colors; namely, white-based (blue, grey and white) and yellow-based (green, grey-green and yellow). Presently, at least 32 primary mutations (including violet) occur, enabling hundreds of possible secondary mutations (stable combined primary mutations) and color varieties (unstable combined mutations).

A great place to read and study about budgie colors is the link below.


Diet & Harmful Foods for English Budgerigars : 
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

*NOTE: Some items are switched from safe to not safe often – Depending on any new research that may have been done. Always do an internet search to make sure you have the updated information. For example some breeders will say that OAK is not a safe wood to use with birds and other breeders will say it is completely safe. After some research what I have learned is that the OAK leaves and the bark of the tree is NOT safe, however the wood itself should be safe. Always double check by doing an internet search to see if any new research has been done before giving your bird anything!

Things to remember when feeding your bird:

• Fresh food and water should always be available.

• Vegetables and fruits not eaten within a few hours should be discarded.

• Remember, treats should not exceed 10% of total food intake.

LuckyFeathers:  I wean all of my babies onto Wild harvest Budgie Seed and Pretty bird pellets mixed in with the seed. I wean my babies onto this formula because both products are available to my customers in any part of the USA. You can get the Wild Harvest mix at your local Walmart and the pretty bird pellets can be picked up at almost any pet shop. We also supply each baby with lots of millet for the first few months and recommend that my customers also supply millet every day for at least the first week after receiving your new baby. We recommended you to have both seed and pellets as a daily diet.

Whole cereals and whole grains:        (Top)
spray millet, amaranth, barley, couscous, flax, whole-grain pastas, oat, quinoa (truly a fruit but used as a cereal), whole-wheat, wild rice, whole rices.

Edible flowers:             (Top)
carnations, chamomille, chives, dandelion, daylily, eucalyptus, fruit tree blossoms, herb blossoms, hibiscus, honeysuckle, impatiens, lilac, nasturtiums, pansies, passion flower (Passiflora), roses, sunflowers, tulips, violets.

More Safe (and tasty) flowers

Note: that the leaves of some of these plants are poisonous to parrots.

Greens and/or weeds:       (Top)      Also see Foliage
mainly ; bok-choi, broccoli and/or cauliflower leaves, cabbage leaves, collard greens, dandelion leaves, kelp, mustard leaves, seaweeds, spirulina, water cress.
occasionally amaranth leaves, beet leaves, carambola (starfruit), chard, parsley, spinach & turnip leaves. All of these feature high oxalic acid contents that induces production of calcium oxalates (crystals/stones) by binding calcium and other trace minerals present in foods and goods with which they’re ingested, possibly leading to calcium deficiencies and/or Hypocalcemia in minor cases, liver or other internal organ damage or failure in more severe cases.

Fruit        (Top)
(except avocados which are toxic): all apple varieties, banana, all berry varieties, all citrus varieties, grapes, kiwi, mango, melons, nectarine, papaya, peach, all pear varieties, plum, star-fruit. Pits and seeds from every citrus and drupe species must always be discarded as they are intoxicating. However, achenes and tiny seeds from pseudo and true berries (bananas, blueberries, elderberries, eggplants, persimmons, pomegranates, raspberries, strawberries, tomatoes) are all acceptable.

More Safe (and tasty) fruits          (Top)
Blood orange
Cantaloupe (known as Rockmelon) melon
Coconut – fresh, dried or juice
Dried dates
Figs (fresh)
Goji berry – dried
Honeydew melon
Lychee (Litchi)
Mango (without skin)
Red Currants
Yellow Plum  

NOTE: Make sure that all apple, pear, citrus, and stone fruit seeds/pits are removed before letting your birds eat the fresh fruits. And make sure you wash all fruits and vegetable thoroughly. It’s always best to go organic for your parrots to stay away from pesticides. The chemicals they feed the plants will harm you and your birds.

Legumes: almonds, beans, lentils, peas, nuts and tofu.

Grain and/or Legume sprouts:           (Top)
adzuki beans, alfalfa beans, buckwheat, lentils, mung beans, pinto beans, red kidney beans, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds. Caution with only lima bean and navy bean sprouts which are toxic. Red kidney beans must be thoroughly cooked, as uncooked red kidney beans are toxic.

Vegetables:       (Top)
(except uncooked potatoes, uncooked onions and all mushrooms)

Beans, rinsed and cooked only
Bell Peppers
Brussels sprouts
Celery stalks
Chinese Cabbage      (Top)
Corn (milky & soft)
Green Beans
Hot Peppers (chilli)
Parsley (small/infrequent quantities only)
Peas (Snow and Sugar Snap to be given pod and all)
Potato (cooked)
Pumpkin (and seeds)
Radish Red Beet (fresh)      (Top)
Romain Lettuce
Sprouts and micro-greens (grown fresh or bought fresh) i.e. alfalfa, snow pea, cress, radish, mung bean, lentils, chickpea.
Sweet Potato (cooked only)
Yams (cooked only)

If you don’t see it on this list, Look it up online to be sure its safe.

Non-toxic Foliage:       (Top)

DAFFODIL (bulbs are poisonous)
TULIP (bulbs only are toxic)

Safe spices:     (Top)
Garlic powder (limited quantities and must be ‘unsalted’)

Pellets for English Budgerigars :        (Top)
 specifically formulated for small tropical pet bird species.
Other fat-free, healthy and nutritious human foods.
Adding these foods provides additional nutrients and can prevent obesity and lipomas, as can substituting millet, which is relatively low in fat, for higher-fat seed mixes. Adult birds often do not always adapt readily to dietary additions, so care must be taken to introduce healthy diets as young as possible (ideally weaned onto fresh foods before introducing chicks onto seeds). Birds learn mainly by mimicry and thus most adult birds will be easily encouraged to try new foods by observing another bird eating the food, or by placing the new food on a mirror.

Parrot species (including English Budgerigars) are herbivores. Consequently, they should be fed vegetarian diets that are ideally supplemented with vegetal proteins. Produced by the combination of any type of whole grain/cereal with any type of legume/pulse. Eggs (hard-boiled and/or scrambled) are the only appropriately healthy source of animal proteins. Mostly for birds in either breeding, growing, moulting and/or recovering conditions. High levels of proteins (most particularly animal proteins) is unhealthy for English Budgerigars and any other Parrot species living under any alternate conditions (i.e. non-breeding, pets).

Harmful Foods for English Budgerigars :    
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

*NOTE: Some items are switched from safe to not safe often – Depending on any new research that may have been done. Always do an internet search to make sure you have the updated information. For example some breeders will say that OAK is not a safe wood to use with birds and other breeders will say it is completely safe. After some research what I have learned is that the OAK leaves and the bark of the tree is NOT safe, however the wood itself should be safe. Always double check by doing an internet search to see if any new research has been done before giving your bird anything!

This is a short list of harmful foods for birds, obviously there are other items and you need to do your homework before you share any foods with your bird.

*Apple Seeds
*Fruit seeds in general are bad. To be safe give your bird NO fruit seeds.
*Avocado or Guacamole
*Tomato Leaves
*Salt – Be careful with foods that have salt. My neighbor gave her Amazon a piece of pepperoni off of her pizza and the bird got ill and passed away the next day. She had an autopsy done and the vet told her the bird died from super high sodium levels, She claims that she did not regularly give her bird any human food and he only had one large piece of pepperoni the night before. Over the years I have heard other stories about birds getting very sick from to much salt.

*Caffeine (in any form)
*Dried Brown Beans (Fully Cooked Beans Are Safe)
*Any High Fat Food

Plants toxic for birds:      (Top)

Save a birds life by posting a link to this page in your facebook group or other bird club sites.

OAK  – The wood should be fine, The leaves, bark and root is NOT safe.
PARSLEY (large quantities)
TOMATO PLANT (fruit is safe – must remove any green stems or leaves)

Foods toxic for birds:    (Top)

1) Chocolate

Chocolate poisoning first affects a bird’s digestive system, causing vomiting and diarrhea. As the condition progresses, the bird’s central nervous system is affected, first causing seizures and eventually death.

2) Apple Seeds    (Top)

Believe it or not, apples – along with other members of the rose family including cherries, peaches, apricots, and pears – contain trace amounts of Cyanide within their seeds. While the fruit of the apple is fine for your bird, be aware that in addition to the poisonous seeds, there may be pesticides present on the fruit’s skin. Be sure to thoroughly cleanse and core any apple pieces that you share with your bird to avoid exposure to these toxins.

3) Avocado

The skin and pit of this popular fruit had been known to cause cardiac distress and eventual heart failure in pet bird species. Although there is some debate to the degree of toxicity of avocados, it is generally advised to adopt a “better safe than sorry” attitude toward them and keep guacamole and other avocado products as far away from pet birds as possible.

4) Onions    (Top)

While the use of limited amounts of onion or garlic powders as flavorings is generally regarded as acceptable, excessive consumption of onions causes vomiting, diarrhea, and a host of other digestive problems. It has been found that prolonged exposure can lead to a blood condition called hemolytic anemia, which is followed by respiratory distress and eventual death.

Hemolytic anemia (HEE-moh-lit-ick uh-NEE-me-uh) is a condition in which red blood cells are destroyed and removed from the bloodstream before their normal lifespan is up.

5) Alcohol Although responsible bird owners would never dream of offering their pet an alcoholic drink, there have been instances in which free roaming birds have attained alcohol poisoning through helping themselves to unattended cocktails. Alcohol depresses the organ systems of birds and can be fatal. Make sure that your bird stays safe by securing him in his cage whenever alcohol is served in your home.

6) Mushrooms    (Top)

Mushrooms are a type of fungus, and have been known to cause digestive upset in companion birds. Caps and stems of some varieties can induce liver failure.

7) Tomato Leaves

Tomatoes, like potatoes and other nightshades, have a tasty fruit that is fine when used as a treat for your bird. The stems, vines, and leaves, however, are highly toxic to your pet. Make sure that any time you offer your bird a tomato treat it has been properly cleaned and sliced, with the green parts removed, so that your bird will avoid exposure to any toxins.

8) Salt    (Top)

While all living beings need regulated amounts of sodium in their systems, too much salt can lead to a host of health problems in birds, including excessive thirst, dehydration, kidney dysfunction, and death. Be sure to keep watch over the amount of salty foods your bird consumes.

9) Caffeine

Caffeinated beverages such as soda, coffee, and tea are popular among people – but allowing your bird to indulge in these drinks can be extremely hazardous. Caffeine causes cardiac malfunction in birds, and is associated with increased heartbeat, arrhythmia, hyper activity, and cardiac arrest. Share a healthy drink of pure fruit or vegetable juice with your bird instead – this will satisfy both your bird’s taste buds and nutritional requirements.

10) Dried Beans    (Top)

Cooked beans are a favorite treat of many birds, but raw, dry bean mixes can be extremely harmful to your pet. Uncooked beans contain a poison called hemaglutin which is very toxic to birds. To avoid exposure, make sure to thoroughly cook any beans that you choose to share with your bird.

Other Foods To Avoid

Fatty foods High fat in the diet leads to obesity and may result in lipomas (fatty tumors), lipemia (fat in the blood), and hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease). Any greasy, oily or otherwise fatty food should be avoided. Commonly overfed fatty foods include nuts, French fries, crackers, marbled meat, peanut butter, butter, fried chicken, fried anything etc.

Sugar foods Obviously, frosting is high in sugar and an undesirable foodstuff. Similarly, soda pop, candy and these types of foods are not recommended.

Dairy Birds lack the digestive enzymes needed to break down milk sugar and milk proteins. Uncultured milk products such as milk, cream and butter should not be fed but yogurt, cheeses and dried milk can be supplemented in the diet in moderation (they are also high in fat).    (Top)

Lettuce A typical filler food, lettuce is low in everything except water. It is not recommended as a food supplement since it offers little, if anything, for the bird. If leafy foods are desired by your bird, try feeding spinach, collard greens, tops of bok choy, carrot tops or kale.

Avocado Although higher in fat than other veggies and used in other countries to condition birds for breeding, avocado has been shown to be toxic in some birds and its feeding is no longer recommended, as mentioned above in the Toxic Foods list

There are so many things that are really bad for birds, Make sure to look up the food online first before giving it to your bird. Once the bird takes a bite – it is to late. It is always best to do just a little research in advance before trying new foods. So in general do not feed your bird anything high in salt, sugar, and fat. Table salt, cooking spray, donuts, chocolate, etc. should never be fed. Common toxic foods include avocado and guacamole, caffeine, fruit pits and apple seeds (contain amounts of cyanide), persimmons, onions (prolonged exposure can lead to a blood condition called hemolytic anemia), mushrooms (fungi should be avoided at all costs; it causes digestion problems and can induce liver failure), dried/uncooked beans (contain hemaglutin, a poison toxic to birds), the stems/vines/leaves of tomatoes (the actual fruit is fine), and eggplant.

Different Kinds of Wood – Tree Branches:     (Top)

Birds love to chew, The following kinds of wood should be harmless as long as it has not been treated with anything:

•Apple/Cherry/Pear tree (Malus spec./Prunus avium or Prunus cerasus/Pyrus spec., respectively)
•Red beech (Fagus sylvatica)
•Mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia)
•Willow (Salix spec.)
•Hazelnut (Corylus avellana)
•Poplar (Populus spec.)
•Lime tree (Tilia spec.)
•Common ash (Fraxinus excelsior)
•Plane (Platanus spec.
•Elm tree (Ulmus spec.)
•Common horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum)
•Walnut (Juglans regia)
•Alder (Alnus spec.)
•Maple tree (Acer spec.)

Do not collect wood, grass or any wild herbs next to very busy roads (high pollution level!)

Apple Cider Vinegar    (Top)
AKA: ACV for short

I use Apple Cider Vinegar in my birds drinking water. I have done lots of research and read many different studies and articles written about the health benefits of ACV. I didn’t just wake up and decide to start doing it – I actually spent a large amount of time researching and reading studies. Most of the research I read said to use one half cup of ACV per each gallon of water. I decided on 5 tablespoons per gallon. For the first week I added 2 tablespoons to each gallon of water so that the birds could get used to it. After the first week I started using 5 table spoons per gallon and have continued now for over 3 years. I really did notice the benefits. My birds colors were brighter, they laid more fertile eggs and I have had almost zero illness. One of the really good things I liked about ACV is that it allows the birds body to absorb more calcium from their everyday regular food. I have had no slow crop issues with my babies and zero crop issues with the adults. I also raise cockatiels from time to time and they are very well known to have crop issues as babies. Sour crop or slow crop is very common. Adding ACV to the handfeeding formula has 100% stopped all slow or sour crop issues. This is my personal experience and I did a lot of research, However – I am no doctor and everyone should do their own research before starting an ACV treatment. Below I have listed just a couple links to more information for you.

Crop Disorders (Treatment with Apple Cider Vinegar) ACV    (Top)
Note: You must use ACV that contains the mother. (mother = the natural pulp bacteria)
Without the mother you will get no benefits from ACV.

One of the most popular uses of apple cider vinegar in aviculture is using it for the prevention and management of crop infections such as yeast infections. Yeast infections, if left untreated, can lead to crop stasis and sour crop. This treatment can be achieved by mixing 1TBSP of apple cider vinegar with 4 cups of water. Providing this mixture as your birds ONLY water source can be quite helpful in managing these disorders. (As with all health related treatments, seek the advice from your qualified avian veterinarian before beginning any home treatments.) The apple cider vinegar creates an acidic environment in the crop which prevents the yeast from continuing to grow. This treatment also helps to restore the normal intestinal flora. It lowers the PH of the droppings which discourages bacteria from growing.

Crop Disorders (Preventing with Apple Cider Vinegar) ACV    (Top)
Note: You must use ACV that contains the mother. (mother = the natural pulp bacteria)
Without the mother you will get no benefits from ACV.

Another popular use as a preventative of yeast and or fungus infection is to use ACV mixed in with the handfeeding formula.
I use one teaspoon full of ACV in each half cup of handfeeding formula as a preventative. Parrotlets are very strong healthy birds naturally but using the ACV has prevented my babies from ever having any yeast or fungus issues. It is also recommended to use with Budgies and Cockatiels regularly because they have a high chance of having crop issues. In my bird room I give all of my adult birds ACV daily and have done so for years now. I mix 5 tablespoons into one gallon of water. I have read that other breeders recommend one half cup of ACV to each gallon, but I have stuck to only using 5 tablespoons per gallon and have had nothing but excellent results. ACV also has been proven in studies to increase egg production in chickens. After using it for 4 to 5 months I did in fact notice an increase in egg production with my birds. It also allows the birds to absorb upto 40% more calcium from their regular diet. Because I am not a doctor I recommend each breeder or pet owner to do his or her own research online or to ask your vet about using ACV.




 PLEASE NOTE: HEATED vinegar emits toxic fumes similar to carbon dioxide. Bird owners have lost their pets by adding vinegar to their dishwashing cycle, or used it to clean coffee machines.

Apple Cider Vinegar Information Links –      (Top)


Housing / Cage info for English Budgerigars :
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

English Budgerigars are very active, playful birds. They need a roomy cage to keep them busy. Because of their playful nature, it is best to get them a cage that is large enough for their acrobatics. The cage should for an adult should be at least 30 X 18 X 16 and up. The bar spacing should be no larger than half an inch so the birds cannot get their small heads caught between the bars, and have horizontal bars. For an adult English Budgie I recommend the largest cage that you can afford. For a baby one year and younger I recommend starting out with a small size cage. As babies they will feel more secure and it will be easier for them to find the food and water. You can pick up a small starter cage for about $18 at Wal-Mart. They love a variety of interesting toys from which they can swing and hang, as well as mirrors and ladders. They need a stimulating environment so they don’t become bored. We suggest that you purchase lots of extra toys so they can rotate them weekly to keep their English Budgie amused. Because the love to chew, I always get the non-treated wood toys normally made out of pine. English Budgerigars should be allowed to chew. It is an important part of being a real parrot.  After your adult English Budgie gets comfortable in your home or after your baby English Budgie matures, It is then time to get a larger cage. Pet birds acclimate well to average household temperatures, not to exceed 90°F; be cautious of extreme temperature changes. The cage should be placed off the floor in an area that is well-lit and away from drafts. Perches should be at least 9” long and 1/4” to 1/2” in diameter; a variety of perch sizes to exercise feet and help prevent arthritis is strongly recommended. I recommend Home Depot or Lowes, These hardware stores carry many different sizes of wooden dowel rods that are priced between $1.00 up to $3.00. They carry them in both pine and oak. If your bird chews up the perches – that’s ok, They need to chew. If it becomes a problem I suggest getting the more pricey rods made of oak. They will take longer to chew up. Also they have square rods. Each cage should have different sizes of perches and at least one square perch. This helps keep their feet healthy. A metal grate over the droppings tray will keep the bird away from walking in the droppings. Most new cages come with the metal grate now. Line the droppings tray with white paper towels. These are not very expensive, they have no harsh inks and because they are white you will be able to spot problems with your birds droppings right away with ease. (such as runny or discolored stools) To avoid contamination, do not place food or water containers under perches. English Budgerigars can be kept alone to bond with the owner or kept in pairs to bond with each other. I personally like to see them in pairs even if you are not going to breed. Birds love to play and have fun. Many people just do not have the time that is required for a single bird. If you are set on getting a bird and you know in advance that you will not have at least one hour each day to play with your bird, please get it a cage mate. Birds that get bored or lonely and can develop bad habits such as feather plucking. They are are easy to get stressed and this can result in shorter life spans. If you have two birds and spend a lot of time with them together you will have two wonderful pets. Different types of birds should not be housed together.


Do not use a lot of cleaning agents around your bird as the fumes can be harmful. It is recommended to use a natural cleaning product. I use vinegar to clean all my cages.


Breeding English Budgerigars:
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Back in the early 1980’s when I first started breeding birds my goal was to become an expert, I was very young and had no real experience. I believed that the answers to all my questions were printed someplace in a book. How wrong I was. Over the years I have read many books, university studies and watched many videos. But I have to say the most beneficial education was actually learning as I go. The best lesson I learned was to never be blinded by new ideas or new ways of doing things. Breeding birds is actually a science and what you learn as you go – will be the most important information. One way to learn valuable information is to talk with other breeders. Go to the bird shows, meet other breeders, join facebook groups and pick up some good books from the local library. Do not close your eyes to new ideas.


If you have a pair that will not breed don’t give up. Try different things such as moving the breeder box or removing it totally for a couple of weeks. Sometimes when the box is there for a long time they just get used to seeing it and are not interested in checking it out. Before breeding your birds remove any breeding triggers such as sleeping huts or sleeping nests if used. When you add the breeder box make sure it is on the outside of the cage and put it up as high as possible. Move the perches or at least one perch in the cage close to the box so that it forces the birds to be closer to the opening of the box. This will give you a better chance of the birds checking out the box. If they show no interest after a couple of weeks try putting a piece of millet spray in the hole of the box with just a little bit of it sticking out. They will eat the millet and follow it into the box in order to get the rest of it. This sometimes helps trigger the breeding to start. Many people who have no luck with breeding only need to make a few changes in order to get results. I have talked to people who have placed the breeder box inside the cage or on the floor, or they have bought a cage that has a precut hole to attach a breeder box but the pre cut holes are almost always in the wrong spot. I have seen these cages with the precut holes placed down to low on the cage or on the side in the middle. This will not work for many breeder pairs. I have my best results with the breeder box on the outside of the cage placed up as high as possible with perches inside the cage moved close to the opening of the box. Also my advise is to check the box every day even if you know they are not going in it or have not laid any eggs. Many birds are strange breeders and they do not like to be disturbed when laying, sitting on or hatching eggs. In order to get my birds over this fear I check the boxes daily by looking inside. They see me looking in the box every day from the start. When they start laying eggs or hatching eggs they will be completely used to me looking in the box. There are several reasons you want to do this other than getting the birds used to it. Checking the box will allow you to catch problems quicker. Problems such as eggs that are buried or covered with pine shavings, broken or cracked eggs or even chicks that are having a hard time hatching. However I do need to advise you to use caution when looking into the box. If you have not got your birds used to it over time or if you did not start looking in the box prior to them having eggs. Starting this practice after the fact or disturbing birds that are not used to you looking in the box can cause problems. Many pairs will leave the box never to return or they will break or even through out the eggs. Get your birds used to you looking in the breeder box early. Another tip that helps trigger the breeding process is longer days. Keep the lights on in your bird room longer. My lights are on a timer. They turn on at 8am and turn off at 10pm each day. At night I use a backlight ( a regular black party light ) as a night light. This allows the birds to see at night and also gives them a very small amount of UV rays needed for health issues. For more on lighting see my Spectrum Lighting section.

Breeding in the wild 

Breeding in the wild generally takes place between June and September in northern Australia and between August and January in the south, although budgerigars are opportunistic breeders and respond to rains when grass seeds become most abundant. They show signs of affection to their flockmates by preening or feeding one another. Budgerigars feed one another by eating the seeds themselves, and then regurgitating it into their flockmate’s mouth. Populations in some areas have increased as a result of increased water availability at farms. Nests are made in holes in trees, fence posts, or logs lying on the ground; the four to six eggs are incubated for 18–21 days, with the young fledging about 30 days after hatching.

In the wild, virtually all parrot species require a hollow tree or a hollow log as a nest site. Because of this natural behavior, budgerigars most easily breed in captivity when provided with a reasonable-sized nest box. The eggs are typically one to two centimetres long and are pearl white without any colouration if fertile. Female budgerigars can lay eggs without a male partner, but these unfertilised eggs will not hatch. When the female is laying eggs, her cere turns a crusty brown colour. A female budgerigar will lay her eggs on alternate days. After the first one, there is usually a two-day gap until the next. She will usually lay between four and eight eggs, which she will incubate (usually starting after laying her second or third) for about 21 days each. Females only leave their nests for very quick defecations, stretches and quick meals once they have begun incubating and are by then almost exclusively fed by their mate (usually at the nest’s entrance). Females will not allow a male to enter the nest, unless he forces his way inside. Depending on the clutch size and the beginning of incubation, the age difference between the first and last hatchling can be anywhere from 9 to 16 days. At times, the parents may begin eating their own eggs due to feeling insecure in the nest box. 

Chick health 

Breeding difficulties arise for various reasons. Some chicks may die from diseases and attacks from adults. Other budgerigars (virtually always females) may fight over the nest box, attacking each other or a brood. Sometimes, budgerigars (mainly males) are not interested in the opposite gender, and will not reproduce with them; a flock setting—several pairs housed where they can see and hear each other—is necessary to stimulate breeding. Another problem may be the birds’ beaks being under lapped, where the lower mandible is above the upper mandible.

Most health issues and physical abnormalities in budgerigars are genetic. Care should be taken that birds used for breeding are active, healthy, and unrelated. Budgerigars that are related or which have fatty tumours or other potential genetic health problems should not be allowed to breed. Parasites (lice, mites, worms) and pathogens (bacteria, fungi and viruses), are contagious and thus transmitted between individuals through either direct or indirect contact. Nest boxes should be cleaned between uses.

Splay leg is a relatively common problem in baby budgerigars; one the budgerigar’s legs is bent outward, which prevents it from being able to stand properly and compete with the other chicks for food, and can also lead to difficulties in reproducing in adulthood. The condition is caused by young budgerigars slipping repeatedly on the floor of a nest box. It is easily avoided by placing a small quantity of a safe bedding or wood shavings in the bottom of the nest box. Alternatively, several pieces of paper may be placed in the box for the female to chew into bedding. 


Eggs take about 18–20 days before they start hatching. The hatchlings are altricial – blind, naked, unable to lift their head, and totally helpless, and their mother feeds them and keeps them warm constantly. Around 10 days of age, the chicks’ eyes will open, and they will start to develop feather down. The appearance of down occurs at the age for closed banding of the chicks. Budgerigar’s closed band rings must be neither larger nor smaller than 4.0 to 4.2 mm.

They develop feathers around three weeks of age. (One can often easily note the colour mutation of the individual birds at this point.) At this stage of the chicks’ development, the male usually has begun to enter the nest to help his female in caring and feeding the chicks. Some budgerigar females, however, totally forbid the male from entering the nest and thus take the full responsibility of rearing the chicks until they fledge.

Depending on the size of the clutch and most particularly in the case of single mothers, it may then be wise to transfer a portion of the hatchlings (or best of the fertile eggs) to another pair. The foster pair must already be in breeding mode and thus either at the laying or incubating stages, or already rearing hatchlings.

As the chicks develop and grow feathers, they are able to be left on their own for longer periods of time. By the fifth week, the chicks are strong enough that both parents will be comfortable in staying out of the nest more. The youngsters will stretch their wings to gain strength before they attempt to fly. They will also help defend the box from enemies, mostly with their loud screeching. Young budgerigars typically fledge (leave the nest) around their fifth week of age and are usually completely weaned between six to eight weeks old. However, the age for fledging, as well as weaning, can vary slightly depending on whether its age and the number of surviving chicks. Generally speaking, the oldest chick is the first to be weaned. Though it is logically the last one to be weaned, the youngest chick is often weaned at a younger age than its older sibling(s). This can be a result of mimicking the actions of older siblings. Lone surviving chicks are often weaned at the youngest possible age as a result of having their parents’ full attention and care.

Hand-reared budgies may take slightly longer to wean than parent-raised chicks. Hand feeding is not routinely done with budgerigars, due to their small size, and because young parent raised birds can be readily tamed. 


Caging for English Budgerigars that are breeding :
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)
more info coming soon.


Nest or Breeder Box for English Budgerigars :
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets   

   [ my breeder nesting boxes for sale ]
more info coming soon.




Update – Note: I am in the process of adding and offering breeder nesting boxes and supplies for sale. You can check out the different sizes and prices on my new website   or

Toys, Perches & Swings for English Budgerigars :
I keep a perch, swing and at least 1-2 toys in every breeding cage. I believe it is very important to have lots of toys available for breeding pairs.

Breeding Diet for English Budgerigars : 
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Nutritionally, it’s more of the same – more fat & more proteins. Follow the normal diet suggestions that I describe above. Except breeding birds will want a greater supply of soft foods such as eggs food, soft fruits and vegetables and millet as these will be the foods that they feed to their young. Supplying these from the start will reassure the breeders that there is an ample food supply to sustain potential chicks, making it more likely that they will breed. High protein foods such as eggs are also advisable at this time.

A calcium supplement is of vital importance at this time, as the hen will be depleting her calcium reserves in egg production. Calcium deficiency at this stage could easily lead to egg binding. Egg binding occurs when the hen’s body has insufficient calcium to deposit on the surface of an egg. The resulting egg is soft, and so when she contracts her muscles to press the egg out, it merely deforms and remains lodged within her. If not treated quickly, this condition can easily be fatal – the hen can succumb to exhaustion, or the egg can burst inside her. Cuttlebone is the obvious solution to this problem, although you can also get commercial calcium supplements designed to be added to water.


Pairing – The Bonding Process of the English Budgie :
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

The disposition of the English Budgie carries over to breeding practices. Protect them from territorial fights by not putting adult pairs together or in close proximity. If in a double breeder cage, the divider must be solid, not wire. Although some have tried colony-breeding in large cages or flights, they can become very aggressive during breeding and have been known to kill even their own mates or chicks.

English Budgerigars can bond for life, however, I have split up and re-paired unproductive or problem pairs many times with good results. You must be careful and handle repairing very cautiously.

When setting up a new pair, the hen is placed in the breeding cage several days before the male so that she may become familiar with her new surroundings. Once the male is placed in the cage, watch them from a distance to make sure normal arguing and bickering does not escalate to serious injury. Be ready to step in immediately if you feel either bird is in danger. I suggest putting them next to each other with a cage or wire divider in between them for one to two weeks in advance. Then try putting them together. This process has worked for me many times. Once a male or female decides they do not like the other mate, it is almost always to late. At that point you will have a very hard time getting them to bond. In an attempt to avoid this from happening I always use the divider cage first. Once i see they are not fighting through the wire or have started to feed each other through the wires I generally go ahead and put them together and watch them closely.

Caution of Young English Budgie Males ( 7 months to a year old )
During this time the male will start to sexually mature. He may become over aggressive. this is not a good time to introduce him to a mate without close supervision. Also a young bonded pair may have problems during this time also. Even though they were put together when they were babies and have been together all this time – The male entering sexually maturity needs to be watched close so that he does not hurt or even kill the female.

Fighting Pairs of English Budgerigars :
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Never pair a much older male (over a year who has bred) with younger hen (under a year who has not bred). He can get frustrated if she doesn’t want to breed and starting picking on her.

Keep the wings clipped of the aggressor. This will keep your pairs calm.

If you ever see blood, IMMEDIATELY remove one of the mates from the nest. Males will peck and bite the female’s toes and legs to try to chase her into the nesting box, if she’s not ready to mate he may kill her. (The female can be the attacker also) After separating them, let them sit side by side in adjacent cages and see after a few days if they look like they are ready to be paired again. I give them a second chance, after this I repair with a new mate.

Mating :
When English Budgerigars mate the male will tend to put one foot on the females back and then they will turn their tails over so the cloaca’s touch, sometimes the female will put her foot on the male. It is very (VERY) important that you have secure perches that are not loose at all in anyway. If you have loose perches you may get unfertile eggs over and over. It is also normal for English Budgerigars to mate at the bottom of the cage or in the nest box. Some pairs will mate every day right up until the hen lays the first egg. Normally it take only about 10 days from a successful mating for the first egg to be laid. The female may not start sitting on the eggs until she has laid 2 or 3. At normal room temperatures of 76 – 80 degrees it is possible for a fertile egg to be 10 days old before the female starts to sit.


Breeding Season for the English Budgie : 
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)
There is no defined breeding season for English Budgerigars kept indoors. My birds breed in every month of the year. Although there are two windows in my current indoor bird room the spectrum rays do not pass through the glass, I use full spectrum lighting. The lights come on at 8am and go off at 10pm. The bird room is climate controlled with AC and heat. I never let the temperature go below 80 in the summer. In the winter months it is hard to keep the temperature at 80 all the time, so I have an average temperature of 75 in the winter months.

The bird room is climate controlled with AC and heat. I never let the temperature go above 90 in the summer. In the winter months it is hard to keep the temperature set all the time, so I have an average temperature of 75 in the winter months with the heater set to come in at 65 degrees.

Caution: Even though birds can handle high heat and low cold temperatures – allowing them to be exposed to large temperature changes that happen quickly can cause illness or death. Keep them away from cold drafts.

Laying Eggs :
Once a hen begins laying, she can be expected to lay one egg every other day, up to 4-6 eggs, although any amount up to about 10 is possible. If three days pass without laying, it is safe to assume the clutch is complete.
I do have some hens who skip a day and lay the eggs every 2 days.

Hatching baby English Budgerigars :
The eggs take 21 days to hatch (more like 24 in the larger species), although this can be increased for the first egg if the hen doesn’t start brooding immediately and potentially decreased for later eggs in the clutch for the opposite reason.
Since the eggs are laid two days apart and a hen usually starts sitting tightly from the first or second egg, you can expect a wide spread in the ages of the chicks. This shouldn’t be a problem except in the cases of particularly large clutches. I personally only allow my hens to have 3 or 4 babies at the most. Once the 4th baby is hatched or starts to hatch I remove the baby that hatched first. By this time the first baby hatched is going to already be about 10 to 12 days old. This allows the rest of the eggs room to hatch and helps keep the female from wearing herself out with so many babies. If you do not remove babies as I do after the 4th hatch, you take the risk of any eggs after the 4th one not hatching. This is because the female no longer has the room she needs to keep the eggs warm and also with 3 or 4 babies continually moving the eggs around in the box many of them crack.  You will have a much higher yield if you remove some of the babies.  If your hen has only laid 3 or 4 eggs you will not need to worry about this.

English Budgerigars as Foster Parents :
English Budgerigars are excellent breeders and highly dedicated parents. They are commonly used as foster parents to incubate eggs and raise the chicks of other bird species such as cockatiels as well as their own species. I have several pair that for whatever the reason they just will not sit on the eggs. I remove the eggs from the box and place them under a different hen. Anytime you have to foster chicks or eggs make sure to mark the eggs and keep a close eye out for the hatch date. Keep good records and use a safe food coloring to mark the babies on the feet or the back. This will allow you to keep track of who the foster chicks are and their bloodlines.


Handfeeding Formula – Food for English Budgerigars :
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

 I recommend a video so you can see exactly how to feed the chick as just one mistake when feeding can drown the chick. Do some research on YouTube and the internet and watch some videos if you do not know what you are doing. One of the best ways to learn is to find someone who is already rearing baby parrots and try and visit them to see how they do it. Be warned, it seems very easy when you see an experienced hand feeder at work but there are so many things that can go wrong and with these very small chicks, you do not normally get a second chance – one mistake and they are dead. English Budgerigars start to wean around 6 to 7 weeks of age and great patience is needed at this time, at this time food should be offered on a flat low dish on the cage floor and lots of variety.

Exact Handfeeding Formula
UPDATE – I am now using the new High Fat Formula made by the same company.
I personally like the high fat formula for my babies. Being such a small bird the extra fat seems to put just a little bit more weight on the bird. The extra weight allows them a better chance to thrive.

Exact Handfeeding Formula I use Exact Handfeeding Formula and have had great success with it over the years.
Exact Hand Feeding Formula was the first “instant “ formula available and is the most researched and respected product used by professional breeders, veterinarians and conservation programs throughout the world. All of my breeder friends also use this formula.

Exact’s balanced, high-nutrient formula helps babies grow faster, wean earlier and develop better, brighter plumage.
When used properly, exact will not cause crop slow-down
exact Hand Feeding Formula contains probiotics to encourage a healthy population of intestinal microorganisms. The selected species have been chosen specifically for their vitality, stability, and overall benefits to a bird’s system.
Digestive enzymes (amylase and protease) are included to insure adequate digestion of carbohydrates and proteins. These enzymes are of particular value in the newly hatched baby or in a bird experiencing digestive difficulties.
exact Hand Feeding Formula has compatible tastes and ingredients with exact Conversion and exact adult daily diets reducing digestive upsets during weaning, or when pulling young from the nest of exact fed parents.
With DHA, an Omega-3 fatty acid for development of heart, brain, and visual functions
High-Nutrient Formuladeveloped for the needs of Baby Birds
Babies develop better feathering & brighter plumage
Trusted by Avian Veterinarians & Breeders
Babies grow faster & wean earlier

•IMPORTANT – DO NOT REUSE MIXED FORMULA!! Discard and mix fresh at each feeding.
•For hatch to 2 days old – formula should be made in small quantities and thoroughly stirred before feeding. Separation at this concentration is expected and is not a problem at this early stage because primary requirements are for water and water soluble nutrients. After chick is two days old, the food concentration must be increased (see feeding chart).
•Microwaving should be avoided. Microwaving can create “hot spots” in the formula and increase the likelihood of accidental crop burns. If required, limit microwaving (on high) to no more than 5 seconds per ½ cup of mixed formula at a time. Be sure to follow this with vigorous stirring before retesting the temperature and feeding. Cover large batches of formula while microwaving to avoid a moisture loss. STIR FORMULA THOROUGHLY TO AVOID POTENTIAL OF BURNING THE CROP. Always test formula for proper temperature before feeding.
•Monitoring weight gain and loss is the best way to identify a problem before it becomes visibly obvious. Weigh and record the weight of each baby bird every morning before the first feeding.
•A healthy chick should gain weight every day until it begins the weaning process. If weight gain stops, but weight is maintained, watch the bird closely. Loss of weight indicates a problem and should be investigated immediately.

Take a look at these videos I found on YouTube.

I Feed all of my babies with a Syringe. One of the videos below shows you how to use a spoon. These videos are of baby parrotlets, however it is the same for all baby birds including budgies, conures and cockatiels. I have more information below on all of the different ways you can feed baby birds.

Additional Resources
Exact   Great information and tips, what to do if the crop slows down and many other great feeding tips. I recommend everyone read this.

Handfeeding Info:  (Top)     

Below are listed some of the different ways to handfeed. I personally like and use the Syringe method myself.
I also allow the babies to tell me when it is time for them to wean. I practice the abundance weaning process with each baby bird.

Definition of Abundance Weaning:
The phrase “abundance weaning” describes the way that most reputable bird breeders wean the baby birds that they hand feed. In abundance weaning, the breeders continue to give the chicks handfeedings while offering them solid foods to try, such as millet and softened pellets. The birds are allowed to stay on handfeedings until they themselves decide that they are ready to eat solid foods and drink water on their own. Most breeders agree that abundance weaning techniques lead to birds with more stable physical and psychological health. Abundance Weaning.


Syringe Feeding the English Budgie : 
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

Syringes are widely used for handfeeding. It also benefits from the chick’s natural feeding response and teaches the baby to eat. The handfeeder can easily control the flow of the formula. I prefer the syringes with the rubber-tipped plungers, as they operate very smoothly.

However, it is more difficult to know when the mouth is full. Another potential problem is that syringes are very difficult to disinfect. I keep mine soaking in disinfect solution at all times when not in use. I rinse them off good before using.

I keep the syringes very clean and have not had a problem with bacterial infections.


Spoon Feeding the English Budgie :

Spoon feeding is the easiest and “fool-proof” way to feed babies. It takes advantage of the baby’s natural feeding response and introduced it to the taste of food. You can do a search on Yahoo to see videos of how this is done.

The size of the chick will dictate the size of the spoon. I have a couple of small spoons that I like. I bent the sides up to form a trough. This allows me to control the flow of the formula quite easily. I watch carefully to see if the baby’s mouth is full, or if it needs to take a breath.

The negative part about spoon feeding is that it gets very messy. Have some wet paper towel available for a clean-up after the feeding.


Dixie Cup feeding the English Budgie :

Some breeders swear by this method. They use a Dixie cup with one edge pinched to a point. I personally have never used this method, but it sounds easy and the big benefit is that there are no dishes to wash afterwards.

Power Feeding /Force Feeding / Gavage / Tube Feeding

I do not power feed my babies. I have had to tube feed over the years when the baby simply will not take the formula any other way. Power feeding is also known as Force-feeding, gavage or tube feeding. Gavage feeding is a method of feeding, in which the food is pumped into the crop through a tube that has been put down the esophagus and into the crop.

Gavage feeding is typically used by handfeeders with too many babies to feed. Birds fed in this manner never learn to eat and can be very difficult to wean.

Emergency Handfeeding Formula:    (Top)

I found the below info and formula mix someplace on the internet a long time ago and thought it important to share.

Sometimes an emergency occurs and you have to hand feed a baby unexpectedly. If you don’t have hand feeding formula and pet shops are closed, this recipe will make a formula for baby birds until you are able to buy some the next day. The ingredients should be available at any 24 hour grocery store. In an emergency situation, you can also feed baby birds, human baby food dinners, stage 1 for infants instead of the recipe below Choose a chicken, turkey, veal or beef dinner with noodles or rice.

* 2/3 cup of Gerber’s or Beech Nut mixed grain or high protein baby food cereal,

* 1 teaspoon of peanut butter–only use a commercial, name brand , NOT organic.

* 1 teaspoon of baby food applesauce

* 1 cap full of unflavored Pedialyte

* Distilled or bottled water, enough for needed consistency

* Dip a plastic, disposable spoon in boiling water then bend the tip to make a little funnel for hand feeding. This will work if you do not have feeding syringes.


Full Spectrum Lighting  ( Very Important for English Budgerigars )
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets    (Top)

I use full spectrum lights only in my birdroom.

Unless you have an outdoor aviary you should have full-spectrum UVA/UVB lighting. Without proper lighting pet birds and breeding birds can become vitamin D deficient. When you are looking for a quality breeder of any parrot species insist on one that provides full-spectrum lighting for proper egg development and vitamin D. It is very expensive to provide this lighting in a full scale large bird room or indoor aviary. Twice a year I change out my spectrum lights and the bill runs around $350.00. However for the pet owner, it does not cost a lot at all because you only need to purchase one bulb. The average cost of the bulb runs around $20.00

Glass windows filter out up to 90% of the beneficial UV spectrum unless that glass was made pre 1939. Aluminum screening used can filter out 30% or more UV light. High-grade acrylic (cages) filters out less than 5% of the UV light.

Sunlight and artificial sources of light are measured by color temperature and rendering. If you were to consider the intensity of the sun at noon daylight, it is about 5500 degrees Kelvin (K).

Natural light not only provides warmth, but brings out the intensity of colors in a way that artificial fluorescent lighting rarely mimics.

Natural daylight is also measured at a color rendering index (CRI) of 100, which shows the vibrant and intensity of colors in and around our environment. Our full spectrum light for birds, the Vital Lamp spiral bulbs, have a CRI of 88, and will bring out colors in your bird’s feathers that you may not have even known existed while using a standard fluorescent cage light.

Full spectrum fluorescent light emits light in all parts of the visual spectrum and some in the ultraviolet range (short-wavelength, high-energy light). To be a full spectrum bulb, the color temperature must be 5000K or greater, and the CRI must be at least 88

A standard fluorescent bulb generally only has a CRI of between 60 and 75, which means the intensity of the source of light is much lower, the temperature is cooler, and there is a noticeable difference or dulling of colors when objects are placed under a standard bulb.

Some Major Benefits of full spectrum lights for English Budgerigars :

* Prepares bird for seasonal changes
* Encourages breeding behaviors
* Strengthens immune system
* Lowers obsessive/compulsive behavior frequencies
* Relieves psychological distress
* Mimics a bird’s natural environment
* Aids in Vitamin D Synthesis
* Maintains constant environmental temperature
* Aids a bird’s visual acuity
* Increases the longevity of the captive bird

Birds have four-color vision and the lower wavelength ultraviolet (UVA) adds the fourth visual perspective. Correct spectrum and photo period of light are also critical factors in normal preening and Breeding as well as the skin and feather health of birds. If a bird’s system is not stimulated through adequate environmental lighting to maintain proper endocrine function, it may become lethargic and not continue normal preening or breeding behaviors.

One of the greatest benefits of full spectrum light for birds is the natural synthesis of Vitamin D precursors allowing the animal to naturally regulate calcium uptake. Recent studies have shown that the full spectrum actually triggers different chemical reactions in the brain of the bird causing lots of good benefits, many of them i have listed in this section.

Another important benefit of full spectrum lighting is the effect it has on the glandular system; the Thyroid Gland controls how and when the other glands function and for it to function properly, it needs to be stimulated by normal photo periods of full-spectrum light. The Hypothalamus is involved in proper feather development and skin. The Pineal Gland controls the cyclical processes such as molting and the reproductive cycle.


full spectrum light for birds can help reestablish the body’s natural rhythm, which controls things like timing of sleep, hormone production, body temperature, and other biological functions.

What characteristics should the light have?      (Top)
What Kind of Light do I get?

There is a lot of conflicting information about what kind of full spectrum lighting is best for birds. But it seems to be generally agreed that the following is ideal:

It should have a CRI (color rendering index) of 90 or more, preferably 95-98. Natural sunlight has a CRI of 100.

A color temperature of 5000K is considered to be perfect but temperatures up to 5500 or so are OK. 5500K is the color temperature of the sun at noon on the equator.

The light fixture should have an electronic ballast, not magnetic, to avoid flicker problems which are invisible to humans but stressful to birds. Fluorescent light fixtures are currently manufactured with electronic ballasts because they are much more energy efficient than the old magnetic ballasts. But this changeover is fairly recent (beginning around 2002) and older fixtures might have a magnetic ballast.

What I Use:          (Top)     

I use a CRI of 90 to 94 and Color temperature of 5500K.
But some lights that call themselves full spectrum are only talking about the human visual spectrum, which is more limited than the avian visual spectrum. You need to know that you can NOT get the bulbs you need at Wal-Mart or Kmart. They need to be ordered or purchased from a specialty shop or pet store.

I will be offering these bulbs for sale on my website soon. Until I have them in stock and listed on the website you can get them directly from BlueMax at   –  The bulbs I use are true full spectrum (visual). I use the screw in  compact fluorescent lights (CFL) for short. They also offer the long tube bulbs as well. If  you want to get the long tube bulbs you will need to call them for the model numbers.

CFL Model #BLDS269055L
26 watts (equal to 150 watts of light)
5500 K   (Kelvin temperature)
90 CRI Minimum (Color Retention Index) – the actual CRI will be between 90 and 94 with these bulbs. They guarantee that it will not be below 90.

For a small room you really don’t need more than one or two bulbs. My bird room is actually my car garage and in order to have really nice light I use 22 bulbs that I change out every 6 months. In between changing the bulbs I use a can of pressure air to keep them clean of dust.

It may not be necessary to change out the bulbs as often as I do. I change mine out because I need to make sure the color spectrum does not fade over time and drop below 90 CRI – also if the bulbs gets old it could be possible that it starts to put out more of the red or blue color spectrum rays. To much of the Blue spectrum can result in producing more females. In order to assure this does not happen in my bird room I always have a couple of the old regular Incandescent type bulbs running (60w) Because the older Incandescent bulbs put out a lot of the red color spectrum this gives me a good balance and assures I don’t end up with to many female babies.

DO NOT position the bulb where the bird will have to look into the bulb to look out of the cage. The bulb should be above the bird at all times.

As a night light in my bird room I use two 4 foot black lights. The black lights give off enough light to reduce the risk of your birds having night fright spells. Also they produce some of the ultraviolet rays that help your bird produce Vitamin D.

The full spectrum color rays are more important than the ultraviolet rays. From all of the studies I have read the bulbs that produce ultraviolet rays put out such a little amount that it just does not justify paying the extra expense. Also even the best ultraviolet bulb only lasts about 40 to 50 days. After this amount of time the bulb still works however the ultraviolet rays have dropped very low if not totally down to zero. Also I did not like the fact that you would have to put the bulbs very close to the birds (16 to 20 inches ) So after a lot of reading I decided to use only the full spectrum bulbs during the day and at night I use the black lights for a small amount of ultraviolet rays. My birds also get Vitamin D and minerals daily in their food and water, so the Vitamin D is supplemented well.

NOTE: I recommend that everyone read up and do internet searches about full spectrum lighting for birds. It took me several weeks and many hours of reading and study to finally decide that the above procedure was best for my aviary. You should read other information available on the internet and then make a choice as to what kind of bulb or lighting is best for your bird room or aviary.

Teaching English Budgerigars To Talk (Top)

English Budgerigars are one of the most intelligent birds that we have ever known. They easily & quickly master understanding of the human language and learn the names of certain thing almost instantly. They are creative and ingenious. They are known to be great talkers and have even held world records for talking and learning the most words.

Male specimens of budgerigars are considered to be one of the top five talking champions amongst parrot species, alongside the African grey, the Amazon, and the Eclectus parrots, and the ring-necked parakeet.

Puck, a male budgerigar owned by American Camille Jordan, holds the world record for the largest vocabulary of any bird, at 1,728 words. Puck died in 1994, with the record first appearing in the 1995 edition of Guinness World Records.

In 2001, recordings of a budgerigar called Victor got some attention from the media. Victor’s owner, Ryan B. Reynolds of Canada, stated Victor was able to engage in contextual conversation and predict the future.[30][31] Though some believe the animal was able to predict his own death as was claimed, further study on the subject is difficult without the bird. The recordings still remain to be verified by scientific analysis. Critics argue Victor’s speech in the recordings is not coherent enough to be determined as spoken in context.

Pet budgies have continued to make headlines all over the world for their mimicry, talking ability, and charm. One budgie, named Disco, has become an internet superstar. As of 2013, Disco has been viewed over 6,067,744 times on his YouTube channel. Some of Disco’s most popular key phrases include, “I am not a crook” and “no body puts baby bird in the corner!”

Often, birds start out being “closet talkers”, meaning they will only talk if you are not in the room or if they are in their cages. They practice quietly and often you can’t quite figure out what they are doing. It starts out being a medley of sounds that eventually turn into distinct words. At first, it can have a squeaky sort of honk sound. When perfected, it retains a robotic quality. Many start out with a “song” rather than recognizable speech.

Holding your bird very close to your mouth while talking seems to encourage them to mimic you. Young birds have an instinctive ability to mimic the calls of their parents and learn the sounds of their flock. Imitating their sounds can encourage them to mimic yours. This is not easy for us, it can’t be expected for it to be easy for them.

Rather than teaching individual words, we use short phrases. Associating a phrase with an action teaches more than simple speech, it helps with training. Examples would be saying “Time for nite-nite” as you cover the cage. If said every evening, your bird will associate these words and actions with a bedtime routine. Even if he never learns the words, he will quickly learn that this means his day is at an end. If you have raised children, you are aware that they respond to short, familiar phrases. They like a lot of enthusiasm. So do birds. (This is why so many birds learn to repeat expletives – they are said with such enthusiasm.)

Both male and female English Budgerigars can learn to talk.


The English Budgie Biting State :
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets   

The biting stage is pretty much the same with budgies, linnies, parrotlets, conures and other hooked bill birds. Many of these little guys go through strong hormonal stages around the first molt.

This section is for the single English Budgie that was handfed as a baby and was very tame, and now all of the sudden is starting to bite you. If this does not describe your bird then the answer below will not apply.

The Question: Why does my English Budgie bite me, why is it not tame anymore and what can I do?

The Answer: both male and females

 This is such a hard question to answer because like people each English Budgie has its very own personality and you can not treat each one of them the same way. There is no simple answer to the biting question, so I have put together a page that if read totally will give you an understanding of the answer and maybe even the solution. English Budgerigars that are handfed as babies are generally not scared of much. This of course depends greatly on the personality of each bird, but from my experience a handfed baby that grows up around people will not be scared of much. This can be dangerous for the bird. Please keep an eye out for dangers, it is your responsibility to keep the bird safe and away from other animals that may cause harm. The English Budgie generally shows you that he is not scared when he is in his cage and feels secure. You may notice that he goes into attack mode when a stranger comes close to the cage or another bird is close by or even a strange dog or cat is in the room.

The biting stage normally starts between 6 months to a year old. English Budgerigars love people. The biting does not mean that the bird does not love you anymore. He/she loves you so much he/she has chosen you for his/her mate. The bird becomes frustrated that it cannot drive you to the nest and the two of you are not setting up housekeeping. The English Budgie will bite you to drive you away from a potential suitor (your human mate, child, acquaintance or other pet). The English Budgie is trying to drive you to the safety of his or her nest. He may bite other people to communicate that you already have a partner. The bird may become territorial when you hold him/her and bite any one that intrudes your space. Although these bites can be extremely painful, they are in fact love bites and almost never will they break the skin.
Limits must be set early. The male English Budgie or aggressive female English Budgie in this biting stage, does not belong on your shoulder. Hold the bird on your finger at low chest or waist level. I believe that English Budgerigars should also be stick or perch trained as well as hand trained so you can always handle them even when they are in the biting stage. Do not engage in rough play with the bird as that will bring out its natural aggression. Discourage nibbling on your body, or fingers. A jiggle of your finger and a firm “No” is all that you need for young English Budgerigars. You must be consistent with this for it to work. At this stage do not give up on the bird. Please continue to hold and play with it during this stage process even if it is biting you. Start using a perch in place of your finger to hold him or her. If you stop working with the bird at this point it will revert back to being un-tame. This would be the worst mistake a bird owner could make. Remember that these little guys can live many many years and how un-happy of a life it would have if it became un-tame and could no longer be held, pet or loved because it had lost its tameness. This is a natural stage for the English Budgie and it will only last about 8 to 12 weeks. Your English Budgie may come into this same biting stage each year as it matures and enters breeding season.

 The Stages:  (Top)
 As a general rule each English Budgie goes through different stages and at least one biting stage each year. The first stage starts as soon as the baby is pulled from the nest box.

Stage #1
The baby will not eat after being pulled away from his parents. This stage only lasts about 3 days. The breeder must be experienced and know how to force the baby to eat at this stage. After a day or two the baby will take the food with no fight.

Stage #2
The baby knows that you are the mommy, He no longer fights you to feed, he runs to you when he sees you and demands that you feed him

Stage #3
The baby is around 6 weeks old. He is hungry but not starving because you have started to give him seed mix. He is curious to explore the world and it is hard to get him to eat. At this stage you will feel that you are back to stage #1 and you will have to be firm and force the baby
( without hurting him ) to take the food. At this stage it is very important for the baby to eat the formula even if you notice him eating the seed mix. The reason is because he needs water and the nutrition from the formula until he is totally on a seed diet around 8 weeks of age.

Stage #4
The baby is very loving and tame, however it was just purchased by its new owner and arrived at his new home for the first time. Now the baby is going to be scared and stressed for a few days up to a week. It is important at this time to not force the baby to play or be held. Let him get used to his new home. Let him learn where is food and water are kept. Remember he has only knew one person in his life up to this point. It will take him a few days to get used to everything. After 3 days to a week you should then start taking him out, holding him and playing with him.

Stage #5
The baby is secure in his new home. He is now reaching the age of about 6 months and starting to mature. This age can also come late and is not always marked at the 6 month period. Some babies do not reach this mature age that we are talking about here until they are 10 to 12 months old. However in most cases it will come around the 6 month area. At this point the bird will start to see you as his mate. It is very important to follow the steps that I talked about above. If he continues to bite you and if it hurts – start using a perch to hold him on. Also this is a good stage to use the birdie play pens that I talk about on this page.


  (Top of Page)     


English Budgie Egg Laying    / also see Egg Incubation
AKA and sometimes called: English Budgies, Budgies, Parakeets, Keets   

A English Budgie hen will appear swollen in the vent area before eggs are laid. Another indication of impending egg laying is extremely large droppings. The average clutch will usually be four to seven eggs, although I’ve heard of up to 10 eggs being laid. The eggs will be laid every other day until the clutch is completed. The hen will not always sit tight until the second or third egg is laid. It’s not unusual to see several clutches of clear eggs before fertile eggs are produced. A pair may go through several cycles before actually producing chicks.

Broken and or Missing English Budgie Eggs :
Some inexperienced young pairs may destroy their eggs or chicks. If a squabble has taken place in the nest box and an egg has broken, the hen may eat the broken egg in an attempt to keep the nest box clean. If the eggs are being deliberately destroyed, replace the newly laid egg with a plastic egg. I bought mine on eBay for about $4 for 6 of them. Once the birds realize the eggs can’t be destroyed, the problem is usually solved. It is not uncommon for this to occur to young, inexperienced pairs. Often the problem will resolve itself and the next clutch will go smoothly. However if they are tossing the eggs out of the box that can be another problem. Sometimes the plastic eggs will also solve this issue. Another way to sold this is to blow out the eggs by poking a hole in each end of the egg and then blowing the yoke out. After you blow out the eggs fill them back up with Tabasco hot sauce and then add a drop of glue on each end of the egg to cover the holes. Once the parents get a taste of the hot sauce they normally stop eating , cracking or tossing the eggs out. The next clutch should go smoothly for you.

Multiple English Budgie Clutches :
Although most pairs will rest between clutches, a very determined pair will continue to lay clutch after clutch. It is these pairs that must have their nestboxes removed for a forced “vacation.” A very determined pair will even attempt to nest in a food dish or on the wire grate of the cage. When this happens, the pair is moved to a different cage with new neighbors and an entirely different view. This generally results in breaking the breeding cycle.


Egg Incubation

The incubation period for most English Budgerigars is 18 – 21  days.
Some hens will sit tight after laying the first egg. In a large clutch this can cause a vast age difference between the oldest and youngest chicks. The incubation period for most English Budgerigars is ?? days. The hen will spend all of her time in the nestbox coming out only to defecate. The male will feed her either in the nest box or at the entrance hole. Sometimes a male will even help incubate the eggs, although it is uncommon. If several eggs have been laid before the hen begins incubating, it is possible for several chicks to be hatched on the same day.






Photo Courtesy of: quoteko. com

Parrot Egg Incubation   written by – Howard Voren  ( Most all of this also applies to all Parrot type birds )

During the many years that I traveled through the jungles of Central and South America, there was never an egg under incubation back home on the farm. We at Voren’s Aviaries never “counted our chickens” before they hatched. Due to the fact that I was near a jungle somewhere in the world about half the time, there was never anyone to tackle the responsibility who wasn’t already overburdened by my absence. As my collection grew near my goals and I began to curtail my travels, I became very involved with incubation. 

Well over 8,000 psittacine eggs have passed through my various incubation procedures during the last four years. The numbers of birds that we have hatched successfully staggers most people (over 1,500 this year alone). I myself am more staggered by those that don’t hatch. Infertility can be depressing, but what really hurts are the babies that die in the shell sometime after the second week of incubation.

Due to my success as an aviculturist, I am called on by many professional breeders for advice. Being in this position allows me to see that everyone who incubates large quantities of eggs has similar problems. Although it is impossible to help people solve problems that I have not been able to solve myself, this communication allows me to question them freely and stockpile facts–facts that at some point lead to answers.

The first fact that becomes glaringly apparent is that the first 10 days to two weeks of incubation is the critical period. Correct procedures during this initial time will almost always result in a successful hatch.

Without exception, anyone incubating a reasonable quantity of eggs who claims a success rate of over 85 percent is not pulling the eggs as they are laid. They are either allowing the hen to keep the eggs until the entire clutch is laid, or they are leaving them with her for two weeks of natural incubation. Those who allow the hen to sit for two weeks have success rates well into the 90-percent range. Once this critical two-week period is over, the egg can be successfully brought to term with a wide variety of temperatures and humidities. 

Temperature (Top of Page)

Under natural conditions, the most important factor in successful incubation is heat. As long as the egg gets enough of it and is not permitted to lose too much of it for too long a time, everything will be fine. This is true even though the actual temperature of the egg fluctuates drastically when the hen is off the nest. Hens that “sit tight” (those that rarely leave the nest) do not have a noticeably higher hatch rate than those that leave the nest at regular intervals. From this, it’s safe to assume that eggs have evolved to be less sensitive to temperature drops than to other more unnatural circumstances.

One thing that a bird cannot do no matter how hard it may try is overheat an egg. This, of course, is possible in an incubator. Overheating is one of the things that an egg is very sensitive to and can result in eventual death. Temperatures that have been used successfully range from 98.7 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. At Voren’s aviaries, we have settled on 99.3 degrees Fahrenheit.

Of course, the best temperature for you to use will depend on many different factors. The most important of these factors is humidity.

Humidity  (Top of Page)

It has been long assumed that 50-percent humidity is required for successful hatching. This is not necessarily the case. Humidities ranging between 38 and 52 percent have been used by different professionals under different circumstances. All have proven successful in the situations used. An egg should undergo a specific percentage of weight loss during the incubation period. This weight loss is achieved by the evaporation of water through the pores of the shell.

Since increasing the incubation temperature can shorten the time period in which it takes a chick to hatch, there is less time for the required water loss to take place. If using these higher temperatures, the lower humidities should be used to allow sufficient water loss during the shortened time period. Conversely, if lower temperatures are used, the chick will take longer to hatch, and higher humidities should be used in order to keep too much evaporation from taking place.

I have experimented with different humidities and found that under the same environmental circumstances, large eggs do better at lower humidities (38 to 45 percent), and smaller eggs do better at the higher range (46 to 52 percent). In fact, it is now standard procedure for me to incubate all macaw and Amazon eggs at between 38 and 42 percent humidity. Conure eggs at these humidity levels experience too much water loss and die, or hatch in a dehydrated state. For conures, we use a humidity level of 48 to 52 percent. I believe this is a function of eggshell calcification differences rather than a difference in the amount of water held in large eggs versus small eggs. In my aviaries, the larger birds generally produce eggs that are harder and thicker-shelled than the conures’. Logic tells one that an egg with a thicker and denser shell would require a lower humidity level in order to incur the same water loss as a thinner or less dense-shelled egg.

Differences in diets and individual metabolisms are the major reasons that there are so many different reports as to the ideal humidity to use in a specific case. One must not lose sight of the fact that a bird can sit on an egg under almost any reasonable humidity and hatch it regardless of how marginally over or under calcified it might be. This tells me there are major flaws in our basic incubation philosophies.

Humidity (to high or to low?)  info added by LuckyFeathers:
With experience you can adjust your humidity as needed by visual inspection of the eggs air cell (air sac or air space). However, Weighing the egg is the MOST accurate. If the incubation humidity is too low (very dry conditions), the air sac will be larger than normal and the humidity in the incubator should be increased to reduce the rate of water loss. If the air space is smaller than normal then the opposite applies and the air sac will be smaller. In order to tell what the air space size should be you will need to compare a few eggs over time. In time you will know just by looking if the air space is to small or to large and then you can adjust your humidity level up or down. With humidity levels being to low the air space will be large and the baby can have a hard time getting out of the egg because it gets stuck to the side of the egg. If the air space is to small (to much humidity) the baby may not be able to reach up and break through the membrane into the air space with its head to pip – resulting in the baby not being able to breath and followed by death. Using a pencil you can keep track of the air space as seen in the photo.

Turning  (Top of Page)

The next most important aspect of incubation is turning the eggs. The number of times per day that a parrot egg should be turned in the incubator is still a subject of debate. Poultry research supports the theory that eggs should be turned between 12 and 24 times a day. However, some people, myself included, think that between four and eight times per day is sufficient.

Under my incubation conditions, I noticed a marked difference in development when the incubator was set to turn the eggs only six times a day instead of 12 times. The eggs developed more evenly. That is to say that the veins that grow out from the embryo covered a larger area and reached around to the “underside” of the egg much earlier in the incubation process than those turned every two hours. There was no difference in incubation time, but hatchability was increased.

Vibration  (Top of Page)

Vibration is probably the most unconsidered variable that is responsible for mortality in the shell. It also explains why under “exactly” the same conditions, two different people can have completely different results using the same model incubator.

Minor differences in mounting positions, as well as the age and type of fan motors used, can have a great effect on the amount of vibration that is transferred from your incubator to your eggs. Eggs in their natural state are incubated in a vibration-free environment. It stands to reason that even the slightest bit of vibration can affect the development of those tiny veins in a negative way. The question is, how much can they stand before vibration proves lethal?

Hatching  (Top of Page)

The first sign that hatching is around the corner is when you see the egg “draw down.” This is when the air space in the egg enlarges. It will change from its normal round appearance to elliptical. One side of this now-elliptical air cell will extend down one side of the inside of the shell. The other side remains up near the top of the egg where it has always been–hence, the elliptical appearance. At this point, many aviculturists move the eggs into a hatcher. Others prefer to wait until the first “pip mark” appears on the egg.

The “hatcher” is an incubator with high humidity and no turning mechanism. The high humidity is to make it easier for the chick to hatch. Since the incubation process is complete, the high humidity (the higher the better) does not interfere with evaporation but does make it less likely for the internal membrane to stick to the hatching chick. Chicks that get stuck to the membrane must be assisted out of the shell, or they will die trying to get out. Normal time lapse between major draw down and hatching is usually about three days.

Hatch Assistance  (Top of Page)

Knowing when to enter into an egg and when to stay out is an art in itself. Many chicks have been saved by timely assistance, but anyone attempting this must remember that it is always a gamble. Hatch assist is something that you can consider if you have a chick that has come to term but for some reason does not hatch.

One should wait at least for an internal pip before even beginning to monitor an egg for possible need of assistance. An internal pip is when you can see the chick moving in the area of the air cell. This happens just prior to the chick attempting to break through the shell wall. Once broken through, the pip mark is called an external pip. If an external pip is not forthcoming, then there may be a need for assistance.

You also may have a problem if a chick externally pips one pip and then stops. Stopping to rest after the first pip is normal. If, however, two days pass and no further attempt has been made to continue the hatching process (more pip marks), then help might be necessary. With either of these two problems (just internal pip or just one external pip), you would proceed in the same manner.

Chip a small hole in the shell so you can see inside. There are some dental tools that are perfect for this work. You should make the hole where the pip mark is or where the pip mark should be. To determine where a pip mark should ideally be, estimate about 3/4 the distance down from the center of the top of the egg (the fat end) to where the expanded air cell ends along the side of the egg. If there is no pip mark, you will have to make a tiny hole. A small nail spun between the thumb and forefinger makes a perfect drill for this procedure.

Once you have drilled a hole or located the pre-existing pip mark, begin to chip away tiny pieces of shell until you can see what is going on inside. Sometimes a chick will pip and get stuck to an overly dry internal membrane. If this happens, the chick will not be able to rotate and pip in enough spots to facilitate hatching. A sure sign of this problem is when you notice upon candling that there are no veins left on the inside of the shell. The feet appear to be moving freely, and the chick keeps pipping at the same spot. In the case of no pip mark other than internal, the problem could still be an overly dry membrane. It might also be a problem of the head being poorly positioned and unable to make an effective strike on the shell.

Remember to keep the hole as small as possible. The membrane will usually be white in appearance. Paint the membrane with water using a tiny paint brush. This will make the membrane transparent and clearly show any veins that might still be carrying blood.

If the chick has not come through the membrane and you are convinced that it is overdue, then make a tear in the membrane to free the chick’s beak and nostrils. Be careful not to break any blood vessels in the membrane. Only work in spots that are free of vessels. This allows the chick to breath and eliminates suffocation as a possible cause of death.

You should now cover all but the smallest air hole with a small piece of tape. At this point, you have the choice of allowing nature to take its course or going in to complete hatching if you feel that there are no more live veins in the membrane, and the yolk has been completely absorbed. If the hole allows you to see that the membrane is completely devoid of veins and the chick has internally pipped and its only obstacle is a dry membrane, you might wish to take off the top of the shell and let the chick lift its head out of the torn membrane. When removing the shell and membrane from around the head, work from the nares back to the crown, if there are any hidden blood vessels they’ll be in the area of the crown. If no viable vessels are noticed as you proceed, then lift the shell and membrane off the bird’s crown down to the upper neck. If the chick is ready to come out, you will get what I call the “jack in the box” effect; that is, the chick’s head will pop straight up out of the fetal position. If the chick does not pop its head up and tries to return to the fetal position, even if you coax the head upward, it’s best to tape the bird in with paper tape (I use Micropore by 3M with great success) and try again in six hours. If the bird does pop its head up, at that point you can look down to see if there is any yolk that has not been absorbed. If none exists, the chick on the half shell should be placed in a small tissue basket back into the hatcher so it can crawl out when it is ready. This is when the last few veins at the navel have dried.

Pulling a chick out of the half shell too early can cause it to bleed to death. If, however, you can see some yolk sac, you should place the chick’s head back into the “fetal” position, place the top of the shell back on the egg, and tape it together. Place the egg back into the hatcher to allow the chick to finish absorbing the yolk. A chick in this situation will have to be released from the shell at the proper time.

Remember, always proceed with great caution. Good luck, and may all your eggs be fertile.
written by – Howard Voren

Howard Voren is a Psittacultural Scientist specializing in the maintenance and reproduction of Central & South American Psittacine birds. Information about Howard Voren can be found on his website at .

Hatching Eggs Using an Incubator: Some extra helpful hints   
 (Top of Page)

General Hints
•Before putting your eggs into an incubator, plug it in and make sure the temp is holding at 99.5 – 102 degrees.
•Mark eggs with a pencil or marker with an x on one side and an o on the other. This is for those of us who have to
turn the eggs.
•Make sure to turn the eggs at least 3 times a day (turn an odd number of times a day). You cannot skip weekends –
you may have deformed babies or none at all.
•You must keep adequate moisture in the incubator at all times. A couple of small paper cups or a pie pan will do
nicely for your water supply.

Fertility and Candling
Fertility is rarely 100%. Fertility may vary from 55% to 95% with season, condition and type of birds. A good
average expectancy may be that 50% to 75% of the eggs will hatch.

Fertility of eggs cannot be determined before incubating them. After 3 to 5 days, eggs may be candled to see if
embryos have developed. Cracked or damaged eggs do not hatch and often develop odors and should be removed when

Eggs may be candled by placing a light bulb under a box or can. A hole must be slightly smaller in diameter than
the egg through which light will pass. Place the egg over the hole, if a cloudy spot or mass is observed, this can
be assumed to be a growing embryo. If the contents of the egg allows light to pass uniformly through it, it can be
assumed that the egg is infertile. Many breeders are now using pen flashlights in place of the above. The pen
lights allow you to candle the eggs without moving them.

The Air Bubble in the Egg
Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble forms in the large end under the shell. A membrane separating the
mass of the egg and the air bubble serves as a diaphragm to relieve stress and pressure resulting from thermal
changes of temperature. The drier the ambient air is, naturally the more fluid is depleted and the faster the
bubbles grows. Correct humidity in the incubator insures that the bubble does not grow to a certain degree by the
time the embryo is ready to hatch, but that the air bubble does not enlarge to the point of depleting the fluids
that are necessary for the final growth of the embryo.

The importance of correct humidity is more apparent at the end of incubation. The normal condition is that the
bubble has enlarged to the point where the baby can reach his beak through the membrane wall and pick around the
shell breaking the bubble area off as a door. If humidity has been excessive, the baby may not reach the bubble but
will pip the shell in the fluids under the bubble and may drown at that moment, before he is able to go any further
with his effort to release himself from the confines of the egg. On the other hand, if humidity has been too low,
the bubble will be oversized and the fluids under it will have dehydrated to the point where final development of
the embryo may be retarded and the baby may become stuck to the shell when it pips. In this condition, the baby
will exhaust itself but will not be able to get out of the shell. After half a day, a baby that is stuck to the
shell, after pipping, may be relieved by pulling the top of the shell off.

Positioning of Eggs
An incubating egg should set in a normal position as it would on a flat surface; that is with the large end
slightly higher than the point end. An egg that persistently has the small end elevated may cause the embryo to be
misoriented with the head toward the small end. In the misoriented position, the chick is likely to drown on
pipping. Therefore, it is quite important that in general, the large end of eggs should be slightly higher than the
small ends; or as they would lie naturally on a flat surface.

Eggs that aren’t turned regularly do not hatch! Turning 3 times a day seems to be adequate. Turning is essential in
the early stages. The last 3 days of incubation when the bird is preparing to hatch it is not recommended. If not
turned to a fresh position frequently during the early stages, the developing embryo touches the shell membrane and
sticks to it causing abnormal growth. Turning the egg aids these movements within the egg. The turning can
determine if the baby will emerge successfully at hatching time.

*See the article above for more info on Temperature

  (Top of Page)    (Hand fed English Budgie Babies for Sale

English Budgie
Health – Diseases – Illness    (Top)

Caution: Because all pet birds are potential carriers of infectious diseases, such as Chlamydiosis, always wash your hands before and after handling any pet bird and/or habitat contents to help prevent the potential spread of diseases. Work with your avian veterinarian on protocols to treat your bird should the bird contract Chlamydiosis. Pregnant women, children under the age of 5 and people with weakened immune systems should contact their physician before purchasing and/or caring for a bird and should consider not having a bird as a pet. For more information regarding birds as pets and bird disease, go to the Center for Disease Control at .

Red flags:
If you notice any of these signs, please contact your veterinarian ASAP.
• beak swelling or accumulations
• fluffed, plucked, or soiled feathers
• sitting on floor or bottom of cage
• wheezing or coughing
• runny or discolored stools
• favoring one foot
• eye or nasal discharge
• red or swollen eyes
• loss of appetite

Note: Please also visit my Links page for information on many different bird health issues, diseases and illness.
Click Here

Many birds tend to become ill in case they are exposed to draught or quick changes in temperature. A bird who suffers from a cold fluffs up the plumage, behaves apathetic, and in case the animal caught a cold , the nose may also be running and from time to time the bird may sneeze. Other kinds of infections affect the lower respiratory tract (lungs, air sacs) and the bird makes sounds that remind of coughing. In fact, coughing is not quite correct since birds are unable to do so. They don’t have a diaphragm and due to this difference in anatomy they can just make sounds that are a bit similar to coughing. On the left you can see a bird whose nose is severely infected, (a bacterial infection).

The birds can be short of breath and in severe cases they may suffer from choking fits that last for several minutes. Due to this, many feathered patients become too weak to perch on their branches. They totter on the ground instead or the bottom of the cage, desperately fighting to get enough oxygen while they breathe. Some birds try to help themselves by attaching their beak to the bars of the cage. This posture enables them to stretch their trachea and breathing becomes a bit more easy.  Often one can hear a sound with each breath a bird takes that is typical for a respiratory infection. Also moving the tail feathers up and down with each breath and a “pumping” motion of the breast can be observed in affected birds.

The types of respiratory disease seen vary depending on geography and whether the birds are kept in aviaries or as pets. Large indoor flocks are at a greater risk for bacterial and fungal infections than single-kept pet birds because the ventilation in indoor aviaries is usually poor and the spread of a disease can be rapid since the number of susceptible birds is higher. Infections and illnesses are spread in many different ways, to help avoid this I use and recommend water bottles for everyday drinking use. I use the ones with large metal balls – I find the large ones allow the birds to get more water much easier. This also assures all of my birds are drinking clean water during the day. Regular water dishes are great places for bacteria and fungus to develop as many birds dunk food and or sit over top of the water and poop in it. I strongly believe that I have not had any disease as a result of using water bottles along with other cleaning practices.

Also, pet birds are more susceptible to inhaling airborne toxins because these birds are more often exposed to such things as household cleansers, incense and air fresheners, kerosene heaters, second-hand cigarette smoke and overheated cookware. Birds housed in outdoor aviaries or flights usually have plenty of air circulation so airborne toxins are far less an issue for them. Birds are susceptible to a respiratory condition called “teflon toxicity” or “PTFE poisoning/toxicosis.” Deaths can result from this condition, which is due to the noxious fumes emitted from overheated cookware coated with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). This chemical is found on most non-stick cookware and appliances, some stain repellant products, and other household items. (PTFE) intoxication, is a rapid and lethal gaseous intoxication of all species of birds. We strongly recommed you research PTFE online for more information.

If you observe the mentioned symptoms you should meet your avian vet as soon as possible. Your bird needs an effective treatment with special drugs like antibiotics (not in each case, but quite often). In addition to this, there are some more things you can do to support the healing process. For example, a warmth therapy might be helpful. Please talk to the avian vet before you expose your bird to infrared light. Another household remedy is inhalation. Your vet will for sure tell you how you have to proceed to prevent hurting your bird (hot water, hot vapour).

“Bacterial infections can be very severe and serious. “Antibiotics, along with other drugs such as steroids and antifungals, are frequently used with great success.
Teflon Toxicity  

Different kinds of colds that English Budgerigars can get :      (Top)
In humans, a typical cold is caused by viruses. The situation in birds is completely different. Viruses are irrelevant, instead birds suffer from bacterial infections of the upper respiratory tract. The problem is: If we humans suffer from a cold, the doctors call the disease “self-limited” because after a few days, the viruses naturally die and the cold is gone. But in birds, the bacterial cold will not heal after a few days. Far from it! It will even get worse because the bacteria proliferate and settle down in more parts of the nose, the sinuses and the mouth (pharynx). The nasal discharges are not watery but gooey and yellowish.

Attention:  (Top)
Unlike a cold in humans, a similar disease with purulent nasal discharge in birds will not heal by itself. If the cold is not treated with an antibiotic it will become chronic! In the worst case the infection will destroy the nose and cere. The nostrils will be enlarged and the affected bird will suffer from pain and choking fits because of the mucus sticking in his nose.

Other important things concerning a cold 
If you suffer from a cold or any kind of infection of the upper respiratory tract you should not kiss your bird and wash your hands after using a tissue handkerchief. Birds can catch illness from humans.


Note: Please also visit my Links page for information on many different bird health issues, diseases and illness.
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Teflon Toxicity   (Top)

Birds are susceptible to a respiratory condition called “teflon toxicity” or “PTFE poisoning/toxicosis.” Deaths can result from this condition, which is due to the noxious fumes emitted from overheated cookware coated with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). This chemical is found on most non-stick cookware and appliances, some stain repellant products, and other household items. (PTFE) intoxication, is a rapid and lethal gaseous intoxication of all species of birds. We strongly recommed you research PTFE online for more information.

Whether you’re a first-time avian owner or an experienced one, did you know that the nonstick pans in your kitchen are your bird’s worst enemy?

Commonly referred to as Teflon poisoning, polytetrafluoroethlyene (PTFE) intoxication is a silent, deadly killer of all species of birds.

While concern about PTFE intoxication tends to increase during the colder months when we close the windows in our homes and decrease the air circulation, the reality is that Teflon poisoning can take place at any time throughout the year.

Why Are Nonstick Pans Dangerous to Birds?

The first nonstick pan coated with PTFE was created in 1954 by French engineer Marc Grégoire, who called the nonstick resin “Tefal.” In 1961, the first U.S.-made nonstick, PTFE-coated frying pan called the “Happy Pan” was sold in stores.

PTFE is now commonly known as the DuPont brand name Teflon.

PTFE toxicity occurs when the nonstick cookware is overheated. The excessive heat creates a gas emission that is typically harmless to humans and other mammals. Birds, however, are particularly sensitive to the airborne gas emission—even in small dosages due to their high metabolic rate and unique anatomy (high levels of oxygen are emitted to their musculature system in order to fly).

Toxicity from PTFE causes severe edematous pneumonia—where a bird’s lungs quick fill with fluid which is then leaked into the airways.

Not many birds can survive PTFE toxicity. The best course of action to ensure your bird’s health is prevention.

Do You Have Toxic Cookware in Your Home?

Your cookware does not have to be the specific Teflon brand to cause PTFE toxicity. All nonstick pans containing polytetrafluoroethlyene are toxic to birds.

Types of nonstick cookware include but are not limited to:

  • Bakeware such as cookie sheets, cupcake pans, cake pans, bread pans, Bundt cake molds
  • Quart pots
  • Frying pans
  • Roasting pans
  • Egg poaching pans
  • Nonstick-coated appliances: ovens, grill plates, electric pans, space heaters
  • Stovetop drip pans.

Symptoms of Teflon Toxicity in Birds    (Top)

PTFE toxicity in birds is devastating and acts quickly.

Symptoms of PTFE toxicity include severe respiratory distress — open-mouthed breathing, tail bobbing and raspy breathing, and birds dropping off their perches. PTFE toxicity is typically fatal, rarely offering owners the time to have their birds examined or treated for the poisoning.

All types of birds are affected by PTFE toxicity. Smaller birds suffer even faster due to their size—less gas is required to register the poisonous effect.

What to Do If You Suspect Your Bird Has Been Poisoned by Teflon    (Top)

If your bird is showing signs of respiratory distress and you suspect Teflon poisoning is a possibility, act quickly.

  • Immediately remove the questionable cookware from the house and turn off the heat source. Take safety precautions as you do so — place the hot object on a fire-proof surface and make sure children and other pets cannot reach it.
  • Open the windows in your house.
  • Increase the ventilation: Turn on ceiling fans, floor fans, exhaust fans and even an attic fan.
  • Call your veterinary clinic immediately to let them know you’re on your way with what you suspect is an acute intoxication.

If your bird survives the initial exposure to PTFE, your veterinarian may place the bird in an oxygen cage, administer antibiotics and diuretics in an attempt to relieve the excess fluid in the birds lungs.

Prevent Teflon Toxicity in Your Home    (Top)

Not many birds can survive PTFE toxicity. The best course of action to ensure your bird’s health is prevention.

Removing all nonstick-coated cookware will eliminate the threat to your bird.

If you have spoken with an avian specialist — whether this is your veterinarian or someone affiliated with veterinary avian care — and removal of all nonstick cookware is not recommended (there are varying opinions on this), take caution when cooking with Teflon-coated products:

  • Don’t leave your cookware unattended on the stove—overheating the nonstick ware is the main culprit. Throw out any nonstick coated pots and pans when they begin to show signs of wear and tear or damage.
  • Move your bird’s cage out of the kitchen to a less exposed area that will also elminate any additional dangers found in the kitchen such as accidental burns.

Discuss PTFE intoxication with your veterinarian to ensure your bird has a safe, healthy environment that both of you can be comfortable with.


Note: Please also visit my Links page for information on many different bird health issues, diseases and illness.
Click Here

English Budgie
Avian Medications
Sometimes used by doctors to treat illness for English Budgerigars

Note: Please also visit my Links page for information on many different bird health issues, diseases and illness.
Click Here

* Below is a list of just a few different medications that vets can use. As always I recommend that you take any sick or ill bird to the vet for treatment. Do not try to medicate your bird unless a vet has written you instructions. 

Acetylsalicylic Acid (Aspirin): potent anti-inflammatory, useful for musculoskeletal pain, also will bring fever down;

Acyclovir (Zorirax): used to treat certain Herpes virus infections; it interferes with the synthesis of the virus’ DNA. It can be applied topically in ointment form, orally or intravenously; can be nephrotoxic (kidney damage), so hydration must be maintained. 

Allopurinol (Zyloprim): used to treat gout; its action inhibits uric acid production; given orally, usually in drinking water; antiviral; potentially nephrotoxic; treats hyperuricaemia, which causes gout; not enough testing done in birds to note all side effects 

Amikacin (Amikin): an aminoglycocide (as is Gentamicin); a potent antibiotic that must be given by injection as it is not absorbed orally; can cause deafness and/or kidney damage, so fluids should be administered during injections to prevent kidney damage:  may also be used in nebulization therapy.

Ammonium solution (Penetran): ointment; analgesic, antipruritic, anti-inflammatory; reduces swelling and relaxes muscles; can be used on fresh wounds; avoid overuse

Amphotericin-B (Fungizone): a newer, antifungal antibiotic used to treat fungal infections that do not respond to other antifungal drugs, esp. Aspergillus; Lotion, cream, ointment, intravenously, injected directly into trachea, or delivered to the respiratory tract via nebulization; may cause bone marrow and kidney toxicity; the most commonly used drug in veterinary medicine for systemic fungal infections. In avian medicine, Aspergillus infections are commonly diagnosed and amphotericin B is widely used to treat such cases;  typically administered to birds  intravenously or intratracheally (IT) or via nebulization; despite its potential for toxic effects, continues to be one of the first drugs selected in both human and veterinary medicine to treat systemic fungal infections.   (Top of Page)

Amoxicillin (Amoxil and Clavulanate): a combination of drugs that makes amoxicillin more effective in treating some bacterial infections; used to prevent pasteurellosis from animal bites

Amprol (Amprolium, Corid): used in combination with other drugs for Coccidia; put in drinking water; birds may not drink medicated water.

Aralen Phosphate (Chloroquine): for malaria, acts to destroy Plasmodium in the red blood cells, given orally.

Azithromycin (Zithromax): an antibiotic new to avian medicine; effective against a variety of Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacterial pathogens and has some activity against anaerobic bacteria and protozoa; more testing needs to be done to determine effectiveness in psittacines

Butorphanol (Stadol): a pain medication and cough suppressant;  a powerful synthetic opioid; presently it is the mostly commonly used analgesic drug in the management of acute pain in avian and exotic mammal medicine; used in perioperative and postoperative pain management; is the current recommendation for opioid analgesia in parrots.

Calphosan: injectable form of calcium used to treat convulsions due to low serum calcium level; also dietary supplement during egg-laying, egg-binding and laying of soft-shelled eggs; periods of rapid growth or bone healing

Calcitonin (Miacalcin, Fortical): a hormone used to treat metabolic bone disease; treats hypercalcemia secondary to neoplasia and poison toxicity.

Calcium EDTA, preferred initial drug to chelate lead or zinc-related toxicosis; given by injection; caution in patients with renal or hepatic impairment.

Capricillic Acid: positive results seen when administered with anti-fungals for aspergillosis in parrots; contains calcium, magnesium and zinc caprylates; given orally.

Carnidazole: trichomoniasis, hexamitiasis, histomoniasis; cockatiels with Giaria.

Carprofen: oral or injectable pain reliever; Carprofen remains a popular NSAID in avian and exotic medicine; NSAIDs are the first course of therapy for chronic disorders. Carprofen is the current drug of choice because of its widespread use and low incidence of reported toxicities.

Cefotaxime (Claforan): in the group of cephalosporins, an injectable antibiotic that crosses the blood-brain barrier; can be used to treat susceptible bacterial infections in the brain;  useful for serious susceptible bacterial infections elsewhere in the body; excreted by kidneys; reduce dose with renal impairment; good for Staph, Strep and some Gram-negative bacteria; may cause diarrhea, secondary candidiasis.

Celecoxib (Celebrex): pain reliever, a COX-2 enzyme inhibitor, NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory), used to control signs of Proventricular Dilatation Disease (PDD); is not a cure; used for general pain relief, arthritis, anti-inflammatory.

Cephalexin (Keflex): also a cephalosporin; can be given orally to treat susceptible bacterial infections; may be good for deep skin infections; varied efficacy for many Gram-negative bacteria. (Top of Page)

Chelating agent: used to bind toxic elements (lead, zinc, iron) and remove them from the body safely; chelating agents are effective against zinc, (a metal that can cause weakness, depression, vomiting, diarrhea, polydypsia, polyuria); found in galvanized metal, some adhesives, some toys, pennies minted after 1982, and more; is associated with feather-picking in some birds, especially cockatoos.

Chlortetracycline: an older member of the tetracycline family, formerly used to treat psittacosis (Chlamydophila); treat concurrently for yeast infections; oral preparation; however, Doxycycline is preferred.

Chorionic Gonadotropin (Pregnyl): a hormone used to inhibit egg laying; also used to treat feather-picking due to sexually related disorders.

Ciprofloxacin (Baytril): broad-spectrum antibiotic, made for human use, often used in avian medicine, was in the news during anthrax scare because it is a first-choice antibiotic for treating it; is a fluoroquinolone, in the same family of antibiotics as Enrofloxacin; most anaerobes (Pseudomonas and Streptococcus) are resistant and may overgrow; Chlamydia and mycoplasma only moderately susceptible.

Cisapride (Propulsid): an oral medication to stimulate gastrointestinal motility, increases gastric emptying rate.

Clortrimazole (Lotrimin): an antifungal used as an adjunct to aspergillosis treatment; can be administered into air sacs, into the trachea, topically or by nebulization; patient must be stable and out of respiratory distress.

Corticosteroids: Hydrocortisone, Prednisolone, Methylprednisolone, Desamethasone; used to treat hypovolemic and septic shock, acute trauma and toxicities.

Cortisone (Cortone), a corticosteroid that should be used with extreme caution in avian patients due to immunosuppressive properties.

Clopidol (Coyden): used to treat Coccidia

D-Ca-Phos: balanced Vit. D3-calcium-phosphorus nutritional supplement.

Dexamethasone (Decadron): a potent steroid, anti-inflammatory; used for shock and trauma; may predispose a bird to aspergillosis and other fungal infections; a synthetic steroid; used in treatment of inflammatory conditions and hormonal imbalances; use with caution—egg-related peritonitis.

Dextrose: for seizuring birds caused by hypoglycemia; measure blood glucose level prior to use.

Diatrozoate sodium): for goiter in budgies.

Diazepam (Valium): used for sedation, seizures, convulsions; acts to relax skeletal muscle, IV, intramuscularly, oral or injectable; can be used with anesthetic agents; may cause hypotension; may increase intracranial and intraocular pressure; caution in renal and liver impairment.   (Top of Page)

Digoxin solution (Lanoxin): for congestive heart failure in conures and parakeets; lower dose in patients with impaired renal function.

Dimercaprol (BAL): chelator for arsenic and gold, mercury if ingested; helps in lead excretion.

Dimercaptosuccinic acid (DMSA): oral chelator for removing toxins from kidney and blood, nasty smell and taste. Preferred oral chelator for lead and zinc toxicosis.

Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) (Rimso-50): topical, for edema, pain, swelling; causes vasodilation and histamine release.

Dimetridazole (Emtryl): used in drinking water to treat giardiasis and trichomoniasis; not to be used when birds are breeding as males feeding hens in nest may consume enough to reach toxic levels; prolonged use may result in toxicity or development of candidiasis; extremely hepatotoxic; can cause death.

Diphenhydramine (Benadryl): antihistamine, used for allergic feather picking, pruritis and allergy signs; given orally; calming effect in some anxious birds; may cause hypotension.

Doxycycline (Atridox):  a very effective drug for treating psittacosis (Chlamydophila); bacteriostatic and anti-inflammatory; can be given orally in water; is also available as an injectable preparation that will provide blood levels for one week with one injection; also used to treat susceptible bacterial infections and mycoplasmosis, allergy,  skin irritation; general antibiotic for many issues.

Enrofloxacin (Baytril): broad-spectrum antibiotic, useful for a wide variety of infections such as chlamydiosis; injectable, orally and in tablets; multiple injections should not be given—they can cause serious tissue, pain and nerve damage; it is bactericidal and has excellent activity against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative pathogens; this antibiotic has also been used to control certain intracellular pathogens; not well accepted by birds when put in drinking water; more research is needed fo its usefulness in birds.  (Top of Page)

Ether: an inhalant anesthetic agent no longer used due to inflammatory and explosive qualities at concentrations needed to induce anesthesia.

Fenbendazole: a new anthelminthic; indicated for the removal of a wide variety of parasites; not enough testing has been done on birds; not recommended at this time; toxic in some species, esp. cockatiels.

Ferric Subsulfate: a coagulant to stop bleeding; available in liquid and powder form; limited to hemorrhage of beak and nails, as it will cause tissue necrosis.

Florfenicol (like chloramphenicol): is a broad-spectrum, bacteriostatic antibiotic that is effective against many Gram-positive and Gram-negative organisms; needs more research for use in exotic species.

Fluconazole (Diflucan):  antifungal medication (fungistatic); useful for treating Candida yeast infections; may cause regurgitation; (can be combined with another treatment for yeast—Nystatin); also used to treat Cryptococcus.

Flucytosine (Ancobon): an antifungal (fungistatic); can be used prophylactically in raptors and waterfowl to prevent aspergillosis; may be used as adjuvant for aspergillus treatment; its action is to inhibit certain biochemical reactions necessary to the life of the fungus cell, thereby killing it. It can be toxic to the bone marrow, administered orally.

Fluoxetine (Prozac): used as adjunctive treatment for depression-induced feather-picking, antidepressant.

Fluoroquinolones: anti-microbial drugs that inhibit bacterial gyrase (the enzyme able for coiling DNA); may induce GI signs and seizures.

Furosemide (Lasix): a diuretic, helps remove excess water from tissues, causes increased urination; can be used in  treatment of heart failure, fluid build-up in tissues or celoem.

Gentamicin (Gentak ointment) (Genoptic drops) (Gentamicin Sulfate Cream):  an aminoglycosid; can cause deafness and kidney disease, not absorbed orally; used in some eye preparations; can be nebulized or given by injection, not recommended for injectable use as safer, newer aminoglycosides are available; mostly used for cockatiels; treats dermatitis; available as drops for nares, eyes and as an antibiotic cream and ointment for sores and lesions

Glipizide (Glucotrol): an oral agent that can be used in the management of diabetes mellitus.

Haloperidol (Haldol): an oral medication used for behavioral disorders and for frustration-induced feather picking; used with hormone injection; for obsessive/compulsive behavior; commonly fails; may work for short time because it increases prolactin levels; may cause hypotension and anorexia.   (Top of Page)

Halothane (Fluothane): an older inhalation anesthetic agent, not usually used in avian patients; it gives moderately good muscle relaxation but has the potential for kidney and liver damage.

Heparin: treats sores; shown to have anti-inflammatory properties.

Hyaluronidase (Amphadase): added to sterile fluids for injection, causes increased rate of absorption of fluids (such as Lactated Ringers solution) when administered subcutaneously; in some cases, replacing the need for intravenous or intraosseous fluids.

Hydrocortisone: a steroid that should be used with extreme caution in avian patients due to immunosuppression in some topical agents.   (Top of Page)

Hydromorphone (Dilaudid): a newer opioid agonist that is related to morphine and is used for sedation, analgesia, and as a restraining agent. Hydromorphone is 5 times as potent as morphine; more effective at relieving continuous, dull pain versus sharp, intermittent pain; can be used in nebulization to help with dyspnea because of its respiratory depressive effects; can have deleterious effects on the intestinal system, slowing down gut motility and causing constipation and ileus; may not be the best choice for managing analgesia in avian patients until further research is performed.

Hydroxyzine (Vistaril): mixed in water; lowers the threshold for seizures, hypotensive, anti-anxiety, anti-pruritic and antihistamine action; not to be used with CNS depressants.

Injacom: injectable preparation of vitamins A, D3 and E used to treat Vit. A deficiency and to promote bone healing and in the treatment of egg binding, soft-shelled eggs, and soft bones.

Insulin: injectable hormone for lowering blood glucose levels in diabetes mellitus; appears to have very short duration of activity in avian patients.

131 Iodine (Iodotope therapeutic): radioactive form of iodine, used to treat hyperthyroidism and in the diagnosis of thyroid disorders; administered orally.

Ipronidazole (Ipropran): used to treat giardiasis and trichomoniasis, put in drinking water.

Isoflurane (Aerrane): an inhalation anesthetic agent that is very safe for use in avian patients, rapidly becoming the anesthetic of choice for avian anesthetic procedures due to its safety, effectiveness and rapid recovery period.

Isoniazid (Nydrazid): treats avian tuberculosis; bacteriostatic for bacilli that are not growing, and bacteriocidal for bacilli that are dividing rapidly; given orally.

Itraconazole (Sporanox): an oral antifungal agent used in the treatment of aspergillosis, candida, Cryptococcus in psittacines; may cause hepatitis, bone toxicit,  hypokalemia (a lack of potassium in the blood, usually caused by excessive amounts of it being excreted, that leads to muscle weakness, heart irregularities, disorientation, and sometimes cardiac arrest)

Ivomectin (Ivermectin) (Stromectol): an antiparasitic drug;  can be given orally, injected or applied topically; effective for scaly mites, lice (ectoparasites), may not be as effective in eradicating ascarids, other nematodes; reported toxicity in finches.

Ketamine (Vetalar):  injectable dissociative agent, may be combined with other injectable medications to provide anesthesia; non-barbituate anesthetic that produces immobility without analgesia; given intramuscularly or intravenously.

Ketoconazole (Nizoral): for systemic fungal infection, including aspergillosis, candidiasis; may cause regurgitation and adrenal gland suppression, so can be dangerous for use in stressed birds; used only when nothing else works; Fluconazole is a safer antifungal for treating candidiasis .   (Top of Page)

Ketoprofen (Orudis): non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agent, for analgesia, arthritis.

Lactated Ringer’s Solution: composed of sterile water, sodium, calcium potassium, chloride and bicarbonate; these components are in the same amounts and proportions as found in the blood; used intravenously to treat shock and dehydration.

Lactobacillus: preparation of nonpathogenic Gram-negative bacteria that promotes the reestablishment of normal bacterial flora in the gut, without which digestion of food and absorption of nutrients cannot occur; given orally.

Lactulos solution: oral suspension; reduces toxins, restores GI flora in liver-damaged birds; carrier for oral meds; overdose causes diarrhea; caution in birds with diabetes mellitus; has been used as a laxative, although more recently for treating hepatic encephalopathy and other diseases that result in liver failure; Lactulose has also been used as a prebiotic and intestinal protective agent in birds exposed to toxins, particularly those affected by oil spills; It is not known whether the digestive tracts of exotic species, particularly birds, are able to digest lactulose; therefore, the effectiveness of this product in these species remains unclear.

Leuprolide acetate (Lupron): drug to prevent ovulation, useful for sexually-related feather-picking and behavioral issues; for use in reproductive diseases; may be helpful in sexual aggression cases; reduces the production of estrogen; used with chronic egg-laying, particularly in cockatiels.

Levamisole (Ripercol-L): used to treat intestinal roundworms; also to stimulate depressed immune systems; when used for this purpose it seems to restore certain immune mechanisms in white blood cells; also stimulates the production of T-lymphocytes. Given in drinking water or administered via feeding tube, or as injection.

Levothyroxine (Levothroid): treatment for hypothyroidism, obesity, lipomas; however, hypothyroidism cannot be diagnosed by just one solitary thyroid test; hypothyroidism is very rare in pet birds and is probably over-diagnosed.

Lincocin or lincomycin: an oral or injectable antibiotic used for skin infections, pododermatitis (bumblefoot), bone infections; antibiotic that is effective mainly against Gram-positive bacteria, thus limiting its usefulness in parrot species, in which bacterial infections are usually of the Gram-negative variety. Administered orally.

Lipotropin powder, sprinkled on food, chelator for liver, fat break up, used for fat packets near wing on chest. 
  (Top of Page)

LS 50: Lyncomycin and spectinomysin: respiratory and alimentary tract infections caused by Gram positive bacteria. Respiratory/nasal infection, oral or injectable antibiotic for skin infections, dermatitis.

Lugol’s solution: iodine solution used to treat certain thyroid conditions such as goite; added to drinking water; excess may cause thyroid hyperplasia; unnecessary if on formulated diet.

Lupron: see Leuprolide acetate.

Meloxicam (Mobic): is a COX-2 preferential nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory; it has analgesic, ant-inflammatory, and antipyretic (reduces fever) properties; used commonly in avian and exotic species, even though studies are lacking and the information of its use is anecdotal. Often used for arthritis, post-operative pain; few side effects when not used in high doses.

Methoxyflurane (Metofane): An inhalant anesthetic that gives excellent muscle relaxation but has the potential for liver damage and causes prolonged depressed body temperature.

Methylprednisolone acitate (Medrol):, corticosteroid, anti-inflammatory, may predispose a bird to aspergillosis and other mycoses, should be used with extreme caution; treats allergies, e.g. Amazon foot necrosis: given orally.

Metoclopramide (Reglan): an injectable or oral medication used for gastrointestinal motility disorders (regurgitation, slow crop motility); used for controlling vomiting, nausea; not to be used if GI obstruction, hemorrhage or hypertension present; not used for epileptics (lowers the threshold for seizures); caution in renally impaired; antagonized by narcotics; not used with monoamine oxidase inhibitors; often used for PDD sufferers.

Metronidazole, (Nitroimidazole) (Flagyl) an oral or IV injectable bacteriocidal antibiotic/antiprotozoal agent,  an amebicide; treats anaerobic bacteria (such as Clostridium), hexamita, Giardia and other GI protozoal flagellates; caution in renal or hepatic impairment; may cause seizures, peripheral neurophathies, anorexia or GI upset; may enhance candidiasis; toxic in finches; seems not as effective in eradicating Giardia since many isolates seem to be resistant now, so for treating Giardia, Ronidazole may be a better choice.

Mintezol (Thiabendazole): treats ascarid (roundworm) infestation of the gut, also gapeworm (Syngamus); Given orally.

Myambutol: (Ethambutol): treats avian tuberculosis, acts to suppress the growth of the TB organism, given orally.   (Top of Page)

Neocalglucon: oral preparation of calcium used as a dietary calcium supplement; given in drinking water.

Niclosamide (Yomaesan): Used to treat tapeworms; administered orally

Nystatin (Mycostatin): an oral suspension used to treat candidiasis (yeast infection), medication must contact the organism, so used most often to treat oral or gastrointestinal candidiasis, some isolates of Candida are becoming resistant to Nystatin, so it may be used as a carrier for Fluconazole (a systemic antifungal agent); any baby bird on an antibiotic should also receive an antifungal agent to prevent secondary candidiasis; also Chlorhexidine or Ketoconazole are used as preventatives for candidiasis in hand-fed baby birds being treated with other antibiotics, or in adult birds on long-term antibiotic therapy, especially of the tetracycline family; resistance common.

Nyzoral: anti-fungal, effective against fungal dermatitis.

Oxytocin (Pitocin): a drug for use in humans and mammals that causes uterine contractions and milk letdown; has been used by injection in cases of egg-binding; however, since birds are not mammals, this is not the best, most effective drug to use, but it may help a hen lay an egg in certain cases; hormone used to aid in egg expulsion in egg-bound hens; acts to stimulate both the frequency and force of smooth muscle contractions in the oviduct; used to stop uterine bleeding; may cause cardiac arrhythmias.

Penicillin G (Procaine): the procaine in this injectable preparation used in small and large animals is very toxic in avian species and should not be used if safer antibiotics are available to treat the condition.

PEP-E: injectable amino acid supplement; an immune stimulant and nutritional supplement in anorexic and compromised birds; (anorectic: a medicine that suppresses the appetite)

Phenobarbital: an oral medication that can be used to try to control seizures in avian species, especially in cases of epilepsy; will diminish oviduct contractions; may cause osteomalacia (a disease that results from a lack of vitamin D or calcium, causing softening of the bones and resulting pain and weakness); caution in liver-impaired; shortens efficacy of Doxycycline.

Pimobendan: cardiovascular drug, a new cariotonic vasodilator (an agent that widens the blood vessels, which in turn decreases resistance to blood flow and lowers blood pressure. Drugs that act as vasodilators are used medically to treat high blood pressure and various other circulatory disorders) ; more tests are needed to determine effects in birds.

Piperacillin (Pipracil): injectable antibiotic in the penicillin family, good broad-spectrum drug; excellent antibiotic alone or when combined with Amikacin; effective against many Gram-negative/Gram-positive bacteria, anaerobes, pseudomonas; excreted in urine and bile; good for liver infections, dog-bite wounds; contraindicated in neonates.

Polysulfated glycosamine glycan (Adequan): cartilage precursor used for arthritis.

Ponazuril: a new triazine coccidiocidal drug which specifically attacks the protozoan parasite from the phylum apicomplexa (this parasite attacks the central nervous system); appears to be safe and effective in a variety of vertebrate species; may prove useful against a variety of apicomplexans found in exotic species; further research is needed.

Praziquantel (Droncit): a dewormer that can be used to remove tapeworms and some flukes (trematodes); can be administered orally or by injection; it causes increased muscular activity in the intestine, causing the worms to lose their grip on host tissue; it destroys the skin of the tapeworm, making it susceptible to the host’s immune mechanism and results in destruction; given in food, by tube or injection; metabolized in liver; toxic to finches; caution in neonates and juveniles, (esp. African Greys).  (Top of Page)

Prednisone, Prednisolone: corticosteroids that are anti-inflammatory and immunosuppressive; may predispose birds to aspergillosis and other fungal infections; should be used only with extreme caution; given either orally, topically or by injection; may cause GI ulcers.

Prepidil gel (Dinoprostone): topical, applied to utero-vaginal sphincter; allows for expulsion of egg.

Primaquine: treats avian malaria; useful in killing malarial protozoa lodged in body tissues such as the liver, rather than those in the red blood cells; for this reason, it is almost always used in conjunction with an anti-malarial drug such as Chloroquine, which is effective against the protozoa residing in the red blood cells; given orally.

Probiotics: a live microorganism that exhibits beneficial effects on the host’s health beyond inherent basic nutrition; used in  preventing and treating disease and promoting overall health in humans and animals; Lactobacillus, Enterococcus, and Bifidobacterium are most often used in human and animal commercial probiotics; more research is needed before practitioners will feel comfortable recommending them for their avian patients.  

Probucol (Lorelco): used to lower cholesterol, control lipemia and lipomas; contains iron; use with caution in birds that are susceptible to hemochromatosisa (a genetic disorder in which there is excess accumulation of iron in the body leading to damage of many organs, especially the liver and pancreas).

Progesterone (Depo-Provera): a hormone used to inhibit ovulation in hens with chronic egg-laying problems,given in injection.   (Top of Page)

Proguanil: treats avian malaria; given intramuscularly.

Propyliodone (Dionosl): a molecule used as a contrast medicine for bronchography.

Propylthiouracil: treats hyperthyroidism; acts to inhibit the formation of thyroid hormones; administered orally.

Prostaglandin E2 (Dinoprostone) gel: for use in cases of egg-binding; placed into cloaca;  will help deliver an egg (if not too large and there are no complications).

Prostaglandin or Oxytocin:  to help passing of egg in egg binding.

Prozac, Doxepin, Haloperidol, Clomipramine, Naltrexone: behavioral drugs; Prozac has a relatively low level of toxicity and relatively few side effects. It is even tolerated in patients with hepatosplenic disease. Toxic to finches can be given orally, and in many cases is effective after a single dose; uses are still being discovered.

Pyrantel Pamoate (Nemex): an oral dewormer that is very safe and effective; to remove intestinal roundworms and other types of intestinal worms (except for tapeworms).

Quinacrine (Atabrine): oral medication rarely used to treat malaria (Plasmodium) in avian species; given orally via feeding tube; concentrates in liver, caution with liver impairment; may cause jaundice and seizures;

Ryfadin (Rifampin, Rimactene): used for avian TB; inhibits the growth of the tuberculosis organism and enhances the effectiveness of Isoniazid, with which it is combined; given orally; has numberous drug interactions; side effects are numerous and associated with most body systems; hepatoxic; do not use with liver impairment; usually used with other drugs to treat mycobacterium (fungus); resistance occurs rapidly; absorption reduced with food.

Ronidazole: oral antiprotozoal medication, very safe and efficacious for treating giardiasis in avian species; (however, not produced for use in the U.S., but is available through companies in this country that import the medication).

Selenium and Vit E (Selsun): used for neuromuscular disease in cockatiels.

Sevoflurane (Ultane): newer inhalation anesthetic, similar to isoflurane; provides more rapid recovery.  (Top of Page)

Silver sulphadiazine (Silvadene): topical; for burns, ulcers, under bandage; good to help rehydrate wounds when applied under a transparent dressing; if used over large areas, make sure hydration is maintained.

Silymarin: milk thistle, digestive aid.

Sucralfate (Carafate): for upper GI bleeding; given 1 hour before food or other drugs; may cause constipation; acts to form a protective barrier in the GI lining; treats stress ulcerations, esophogitis, duodenal ulcerations, GI ulcerations resulting from NSAID use, GI reflux disease; considered safe with few side effects.

Sulfachlorpyridazine: powder antibiotic for susceptible bacterial infections of the gastrointestinal tract; also used to treat coccidiosis; not to be used in birds laying eggs.

Sulfadimethoxine (Albon): an oral and injectable medication used to treat coccidiosis (a type of protozoa), Haemoproteus, Pasteurella, Salmonella in small psittacines; make sure hydration is maintained.  (Top of Page)

Tetracycline (Sumycin): an older antibiotic that is bacteriostatic, was used for treating Chlamydophila, Mycoplasma, spirochetes, rickettsiae (a parasitic bacterium that typically lives inside ticks and can be transmitted to humans, causing Rocky Mountain spotted fever), forms of typhus, and other diseases; some aerobic and anaerobic bacteria  are susceptible; also can be used to treat certain protozoal infections; rarely used as birds may not drink sufficient water.

Thyroxine (Synthroid): thyroid supplement; may cause recrudescence (to become active again after a dormant period) of thymus in adults; toxic levels cause hypertrophic cardiomyopathy and heart failure.

Ticarcillin (Timentin): effective against many Gram-positive and Gram-negative organisms including Pseudomonas and some anaerobes; resistance may develop rapidly.

Tramadol (Ultracet): anopiate for pain management, used for past 25 years in humans; an analgesic for moderate to severe pain; combined with isoflurane to maintain anesthesia; also used in local anesthetics; more research needs to be done for use in avian species.

Triamcinolone: a corticosteroid often found in topical preparations used for dogs and cats; can be dangerous when used topically in avian species; may predispose to aspergillosis and other fungal infections.   (Top of Page)

Trimethoprim/sulfamethoxazole (or Sulfadizine) (Bactrim): oral, injectable; bacteriocidal antibiotic combination, used in geese for susceptible organisms.

Vecuronium Bromide: can be used to dilate pupils in avian species.

Vermifuge: for endoparasites such as threadworms, (capillaria); kills or expels internal parasites from intestinal tract.

Vincristine sulfate: treatment for avian lymphosarcoma, possibly leukemia; given intravenously.

Vinegar, can be used in drinking water (apple cider) to treat gastrointestinal yeast infections, also can be applied topically to mucosa of cloaca (everted) to check for evidence of papillomas.

 PLEASE NOTE: HEATED vinegar emits toxic fumes similar to carbon dioxide. Bird owners have lost their pets by adding vinegar to their dishwashing cycle, or used it to clean coffee machines.

Xylazine (Rompun):  injectable agent used for sedation (seldom used in avian patients); analgesic and sedative used in combination with ketamine to produce anesthesia; intravenously or intramuscularly.   
(Top of Page)

Yohimbine (Aphrodine): used to partially reverse Xylazine.

(Top of Page)

Note: Please also visit my Links page for information on many different bird health issues, diseases and illness.
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Wing Clipping – Should I clip my English Budgerigars wings?    (Top

Wing clipping could be labeled one of the most controversial subjects in aviculture. There are many reasons why some bird owners choose to clip their bird’s wings, and just as many reasons why some bird owners do not. While wing clipping is generally recommended for most captive birds, the decision to trim a bird is one best left to the individual owner.

Aside from ensuring that their pet doesn’t accidentally fly away, the biggest reason that most bird owners clip their pets is for safety. Indoor life poses perils that birds do not normally face in the wild, such as windows, ceiling fans, ovens, doorways, sinks, and toilets. Clipping a bird’s wings can help limit their access to dangers such as these.

Another reason that many pet birds have their wings clipped is because it forces the bird to be more dependent on its owner. Many believe that this can serve to enhance the bird/human bond, although there are countless flighted pet birds that enjoy close relationships with their human families.

Those on the other side of the fence contend that depriving a bird of its ability to fly can cause physical and psychological damage. Many argue that the benefits of flying — exercise and mental stimulation — far outweigh the risks of injury to a pet bird, provided they are properly supervised.

Others have different reasons for not trimming their birds. Show birds, for example, have the best chance of winning when they are fully feathered.

Putting some thought into the reasons for and against wing clipping will help you make the best choice for your pet. Talk to your avian veterinarian and get his or her input, and discuss the options with your family members. With careful consideration, you are sure to make a decision that will satisfy the needs of both you are your favorite feathered friend.

Below are some photos that show you where to clip. Also i recommend watching some videos on Youtube. Some of the videos posted by users are very good and detailed.

Clipping Your English Budgerigars Wings      (Top

I recommend that you visit your local Avian Veterinarian for your first wing and nail clipping! Your Veterinarian can demonstrate the proper techniques and provide you with everything you need to safely perform this routine maintenance on your own. Also I recommend that  you watch a few videos on YouTube if it’s your first time.    


Keeping your English Budgerigars wing’s properly trimmed is an essential part of owning a parrot. Not only does it aid in keeping you, the owner, as the dominant member of the bird-human relationship, it is very important for the safety of your pet. The vast majority of “lost bird” reports come from people who claim to never have clipped their bird’s wings, or to have “forgotten” to do this. Even birds who owners claim “never even attempt to fly” are prone to a startle reflex when suddenly frightened. In this case even a handraised bird’s instincts tell then to attempt to fly off. If the bird’s wings are clipped, the parrot will flutter harmlessly to the ground – if not, this act of owner negligence could result in the loss of a bird.

Even birds who never go outside benefit from clipped wings. A fully flighted bird in the house is much more prone to wing, head and leg injuries resulting from crashes into doors, walls, ceiling fans, windows, mirrors, etc. Sometimes these injuries could prove fatal! Further, a non-clipped bird is more likely to act dominant to its owner, since it knows it can fly away to a high, “superior” spot if it needs to assert itself. Over the years I have had several customers call me and tell me horror stories about their little birds getting away from them or about how someone left the ceiling fan on and the bird flew right into it. It is just not worth the chances you take by not having the birds wings clipped.

For those feeling pity for stripping our feathered companions of their unique and beautiful flying ability, fear not. Any bird will learn very quickly to get what it wants using their two wonderfully adapted feet and that marvelous hooked beak. Think about it this way, in the wild, birds fly (expending lots of time and energy) to find food, shelter, safety, things to play with, places to bathe, and companionship. In a proper human-parrot home, all of these things are provided in abundance. If let out of the cage often, and offered plenty of opportunity and variety of food, playthings and companionship, a pet bird with clipped wings will be perfectly content and will never attempt to fly (unless startled).

When trimming your bird’s wings always aim the scissors away from the bird’s body. Otherwise, serious injury could result. Also, be sure to have someone competent holding the bird. You could easily get bit or even strangle your bird if your holder is not careful.

When you cut your bird’s primary flight feathers, use the dorsal major primary coverts as a type of “dotted line” guide. These are the smaller feathers just above (towards the bird’s head and wrist) the primary flights. If you cut just below (towards the tail) these feathers, you should never accidentally cut an immature or “blood” feather, which could result in pain and bleeding. Normally, the part of the feather sticking beyond the coverts is mature and without blood supply.

Clipping the wings in this manner can be as painless as cutting hair. Usually, the bird has more objection to the restraint involved than the actual wing trimming. As shown in the diagram, when the wing is fully extended, we can see the area cut. However, once the wing is pulled back into a folded position, the cut portion folds under the secondary flight feathers and cannot be seen.

NOTE: If you accidentally cause your bird to bleed during a grooming procedure, do not panic! Bleeding can be stopped by using a styptic powder (i.e. “Kwik-Stop”) or even regular baking flour, in a pinch.

Before and After

A good example would be to follow the black lines below when cutting.

I always recommend watching some videos of wing clipping on Youtube if it’s your first time.
Here is a link to just one. Do a search on Youtube for wing clipping and watch several videos.



As a breeder I have to take everything into account so I do clip the wings on all of my babies. I do however wait until the baby has flown a few times after feeding. After a baby has flown around the house a couple of times I clip the wings for safety reasons. One reason is because I have a teen age son that no matter how many times you tell him – Leaves the doors open or turns on the ceiling fans. Another reason is because most of my babies are shipped with same day service and if for any reason the airport needs to open the birds shipping crate I don’t want it to fly away at the airport. I do not clip the wings on any of my adult breeders. However if I have a male or female that is aggressive with its mate I sometimes will clip its wings. Clipping the wings normally calms the bird down and it will stop picking on the other birds. It is rare that I have to do this.  Below is an article that was posted in one of the Facebook groups about wing clipping. I found it to be full of great information about wing clipping so I decided to share it here on the website.

LuckyFeathers – White Paper Article     (Top of page)

by: Greg Glendell

(Originally published in UK, 2008)

Many parrots still have their wings clipped. In this article, Greg Glendell explains why clipping is not
necessary and may even cause more problems than it can solve.

The flying parrot! It sometimes comes as a surprise to bird keepers (who may only know parrots in
captivity) that most wild parrots are ace-aeronauts. And they have to be for one very simple reason: to
escape being caught by an equally skilled hawk intent on catching a parrot for food. Wild parrots who
escape such attacks at high speed and can fly with precision in a tightly packed flock are the ones who
survive to live another day.

So what has this to do with the pet bird in your home? Well, we are always reminding ourselves that
parrots are not really domesticated birds, but remain essentially the same as those in the wild; this is very
true! Throughout their long history of evolution, parrots have refined their flying abilities for the sake of
sheer survival. Wild parrots typically fly at 35 to 45 mph and can keep this up for several hours when
required. The parrot in the home has retained all the instinctive behaviours found in a wild bird
vulnerable to attack from predators. In fact the bird’s whole body, behaviour and lifestyle are adapted for
flight. Due to this evolutionary history, flight is also vital to a parrot’s health and well-being even when it
is in captivity. A flying creature cannot get effective aerobic exercise merely by climbing around, no
more than a dog can get effective exercise unless it is able to run around each day. Pet parrots which do
have regular daily exercise by flying are also strong, fit and healthy birds. Flight is as vital for a bird as
running is for dogs or horses.

How parrots learn to fly.    (Top
When baby parrots fledge and leave the nest, they have a strong natural urge to fly, though they don’t
have the skills for precision flight; these skills can only be acquired by experience. All birds (both wild
ones and pet birds) are clumsy for a while during this stage. Just like a human toddler learning to walk
instead of crawl, the birds will have accidents. They may crash-land and misjudge distances when
landing. Birds in captivity have two extra problems to overcome when learning to fly. First, there is the
problem of taking off in the still ‘dead’ air of a room. In the wild, the bird would normally experience the
wind and turn instinctively into this to take off and land more easily. Second, a lack of space. Learning
to fly within the confines of a room is both difficult and unnatural. The bird has insufficient space to gain
any speed before it then has to find somewhere to land. In the wild, it might fly a great distance before
finding a suitable place to land, then prepare itself as it approaches the perch. Fledgling parrots tend to
follow their parents on early flights, and rely on them to show them where to land. With this in mind, as
the bird’s main carer, you should replicate this guidance by showing your bird which places you would
like him to use as perches to land on, but do this before the bird is asked to fly to these places. So, just
use the ‘Step up’ and ‘Step down’ requests to get your bird used to a range of places in the room(s) he has
access to. This might include the backs of chairs, a table, settee, window-ledges etc. Pet birds also need
to be taught about the problems of large-pane windows. It’s best to make these invisible barriers more
obvious to the bird by hanging net curtains at them or sticking something on the window such as diagonal
strips of dark masking/duct tape (birds may try to perch on horizontally arranged tape). Once the bird is
familiar with the window, the tape can be removed.
At first, young birds are not aware of the extent of their own wingspan and an Amazon or African grey,
with a wingspan of about 28 inches (75cms) may collide with a door post as it tries to fly through.
However, after a few attempts, they learn the trick of tucking the wings in to pass through any gap
narrower than their wingspan. So, given the time and space in which to learn, pet parrots soon acquire the
skills to fly well, though this may take a few weeks. You will see a big change in a young bird’s flying
abilities as soon as it learns how to apply the ‘air-brakes’. It does this by dropping its tail feathers and
using some reverse thrust with its primary feathers as it comes in to land. Following acquisition of these
skills the birds fly with much greater confidence and control.

The bird will soon have better speed control and use its tail and a banking manoeuvre to change direction
as well as reduce speed. To land properly, the skilled flyer swoops up to the perch while the tail is
dropped down. This allows it to reduce speed. At the point of landing (and unlike aircraft) the bird has
to stall -to ensure zero airspeed as it reaches the perch. Then, it twists its primary feathers forward to
brake as it puts its feet out to grip the perch. Clipped birds will still sometimes attempt to fly, but the loss
of their primary feathers causes another problem; crash landings. Clipped birds cannot use their primaries
for reverse thrust, so they are often forced to crash-land. This can result in injuries.

As part of their normal development, parrots have a ‘behavioural window’ to learn to fly in the first few
weeks of leaving the nest and it is vital that all young captive-bred birds be given this opportunity. Good
breeders will always encourage their birds to fly as soon as the bird’s natural urges reveal the desire to
take to the air. Soon after fledging (the natural point at which the bird leaves the nest) it will put on
weight as it develops its powerful pectoral muscles on the chest. Also, the heart will grow to its normal
healthy size and develop to be able to beat at around a thousand beats per minute, as is required for flight.

Young birds fledged naturally will be very much fitter and stronger birds than those that have not had
such opportunities to fly. With this in mind, it is common sense that young birds should never be wing
clipped. Clipping at this stage could seriously affect both their mental and physical health for the rest of
their lives, so this should never be done.

So Why clip at all?    (Top
The most common reasons given for wanting a bird clipped are
• To prevent the bird escaping.
• To control a bird’s ‘dominant’ behaviour by limiting its ability to fly.
• Because the owner (or breeder) feels it is ‘safer’ for the bird.
• Because the owner doesn’t feel comfortable having a bird that can fly around the house.
Although the first three reasons may seem acceptable there are problems with these as we shall see.
However, the fourth reason is simply not acceptable: anyone who is not at ease with birds flying near
them should consider the many alternative animals which can be kept as pets. In truth, many birds are
also clipped merely as a routine or default practice, without really thinking about the true effects on the
bird of this procedure.

Clipping to Prevent escape.    (Top
There are many different types of clipping which vary in their severity, but essentially there are two
methods: either a one-wing clip, to deliberately unbalance the bird should it attempt to fly, or a
symmetrical clip to both wings, which is meant to allow safe downward flight, but prevents lift. The first
method, where most of the primary feathers on one wing are cut off at the level of the wing coverts, is
very crude, indeed very cruel. This clip can threaten the safety, indeed the life, of the bird. Birds have
spent millions of years evolving as highly skilled flying creatures and symmetry is vital to them. To
undermine this by deliberately making a bird unbalanced may also threaten the bird’s mental well-being.
Birds clipped on one-wing which then fall on any hard surface are vulnerable to fractures and bruising to
the breastbone, broken limbs, head injuries and even death. Parrots often start feather plucking a few
weeks after such crude clipping and this problem can be impossible to cure in many birds.

A light but even clipping of both wings is less harmful to the bird. The intention here, is that the bird will
be able to fly down and land safely, but it will be unable to fly up (cannot generate lift). However, should
such a bird get outdoors, it may be able to gain enough lift by facing into the wind and fly fairly normally.
So, the dilemma with a ‘better’ type of clipping is that while it denies the bird lift in the still ‘dead’ air
indoors, it cannot stop a bird escaping by flight outdoors if there is some wind blowing to aid lift.

All birds, clipped or not, are vulnerable to some dangers. If a full-winged bird escapes it may go a
considerable distance, especially if it panics. However, clipped birds are vulnerable to different dangers.
For example, they tend to walk on the floor more, so they are more likely to be trodden on or caught by a
door opening or closing onto them. People with severely clipped birds may be less cautious about leaving
their external doors open. If such a clipped bird escapes, it may not get very far, but it is more vulnerable
to attacks from dogs or cats or being run over by a vehicle when outdoors.

More problems……    (Top
All flying birds, including parrots, have an escape response to danger which is both instinctive (not a
learnt behaviour) and is a reflex action (the bird cannot control this action by a conscious decision). The
escape reflex action is caused by many aversive stimuli that the bird receives. This may be a ‘real’ threat,
such as the close approach of a person or animal the bird fears, or some perceived but ‘false’ or harmless
threat such as the proximity of some harmless but unfamiliar object. In performing the escape reflex
action, the bird jumps into the air and takes flight to seek a higher perch where it will feel more secure as
it can then look down, safely on the danger. Only once air-borne, a second or two after the reflex action
comes into play, does the bird have voluntary control of its own movements. Clipping a bird does not
(cannot) prevent the reflex action from taking place; where a clipped bird tries to fly and lands on any
hard surface, it can sustain serious injuries. It is the frustration of this predator-escape response caused by
wing-clipping which causes many parrots great psychological stress. Some birds transfer this frustration
into maladaptive behaviours such as feather plucking, self-mutilation, biting or screaming. With their
freedom to move so limited, others may become ‘behaviourally tethered’ to their cage or stand, defending
this space aggressively against anyone else.

Moulting and re-growth of feathers can mean further problems for clipped birds. Most people who clip
birds’ wings don’t acknowledge the importance of flight to birds as part of the normal behavioural
repertoire. Often there is a lack of information on the evolutionary pressures which resulted in birds
perfecting a flying lifestyle over millions years. Also, many parrot people remain unaware of the
moulting sequence and rate of growth of flight feathers. They fail to understand why, in parrots, these
facts often lead to breaking and bleeding of blood feathers.
Most parrots have 10 primary feathers which are attached to the ‘hand’ and 12 secondary feathers
attached to the lower forearm (ulna). These feathers are numbered, anatomically, in a standard way, as
you look at the bird’s outstretched wing. Primary number 1 (P1) is the innermost primary. P10 is the
outermost primary. The outermost secondary is S1 (this is next to P1). The innermost secondary (next ,
to the bird’s body) is S12. Healthy parrots moult in a set way, (Juniper & Parr 1998) and their moulting
sequence is quite different from most other birds such as passerines and raptors. The middle primary,
usually P6 is the first feather to be dropped from both wings and growth of the new replacement feathers
starts immediately. Most parrots, regardless of their size, grow their feathers at a rate of 3 – 4 millimetres
every 24 hours (Glendell 2007). So, it takes a grey parrot with primaries measuring about 185cms 52
days to grow one blood feather down. You can usually see the growth rate of a feather as alternating,
narrow, parallel dark and pale bands across each feather when this is viewed in good, bright daylight.
Once the new P6 is part grown, P5 and/or P7 will be moulted and start to be re-grown. Then numbers P3
and P7 etc. working in both directions along both wings at the same time. Once most primaries have
been replaced, the bird starts to moult and replace its secondaries (S). The full moulting sequence for
most parrots is as follows, brackets indicate feathers being moulted at the same time in pairs: P6, (P5+7)
(P8+4) (P3+9) (P2+10) P1. S1, straight through to S12 at the end of the moult. This moulting sequence
is an adaptation to maintain the symmetry that is vital to flying birds.


Moulting sequence of most parrots
A central primary, P no. 6 (shown red) is usually the first wing feather to be moulted.

Normal healthy birds will not moult more than 3 flight feathers from the wing at once. Large birds (with
large flight feathers!) take much longer to grow each feather. It may take a large macaw or cockatoo
more than 18 months to complete a moult. But a small parakeet may take no more than 3 months to
complete the same process.

Now, when a clipped bird tries to re-grow its wing feathers by producing the new ‘blood’ feathers, these
are liable to be damaged. This is because unlike the normal wing, a clipped wing does not have adjacent
old, full-length feathers to give the new blood feathers any protection during their very delicate growth
stage. Bleeding can be profuse if such a feather is damaged. Birds which do not show any behavioural
problems at the time of clipping often develop problems later at this stage. They start to pick at the new
unprotected feathers and this may prevent proper re-growth of all clipped feathers. If your bird is clipped,
it is best to restore flight immediately by having donor feathers attached to the clipped feather stumps.
This procedure is called imping and can be carried out by an avian vet. I can supply donor flight feathers
for most ‘pet’ parrot species to vets for imping. The bird should of course also be trained to fly to and
from you, and to and from other familiar places on a verbal request from you.

Clipping to have more control over your bird.    (Top
This is commonly given as the reason for clipping. However, most people who ask for their bird to be
clipped for control reasons have not even been informed of the option of basic training of flight requests
with their bird, yet most parrots respond very well to training within a few days. In addition to teaching a
bird to “Step up” and “Go down” off the hand, I normally teach these additional requests:

Stay”. This means do not approach me or fly to me for the moment.
Go“. Means leave me by flying off me.
Off there“. Means leave your present perch and fly to another place (usually used as a safety request).
On here” This means please fly to me now.

These flight requests are taught using reward-based training methods; the bird gets something it really
likes such as head scritches, a favourite toy or favourite food treat while learning the new requests. Once
learnt by the bird these requests gives carers all the control they need of their bird.

Another major advantage of teaching a bird the basic flight requests is that should the bird ever escape, it
can be much easier to get it back once you have spotted it, since trained birds tend to still accept these
requests by the person they are bonded to even when they are outdoors. Having kept parrots for over 25
years, I have had quite a few birds escape. However, I have never lost any trained birds, and only ever
lost one untrained one (in 1992). I have recovered escaped Amazons, greys, conures and Meyers parrots
by this means.

Wings are for flying!    (Top
Prospective buyers of parrots are often simply not told about the serious consequences of wing clipping
especially as regards young birds. These problems do not often appear until many weeks or months after
the bird is in its new home. Since the basic training can give you good control of a flighted bird there is
no need to have any bird clipped. It only takes a few minutes to clip a bird’s wings but it can take months
or even years (and expensive vet’s bills) to correct the problems that wing-clipping can cause.

Birds trained to accept a few extra ‘requests’ from their main carers can of course spend much more time
out of their cage since they cause fewer problems while enjoying valuable time with you and the relative
freedom that this gives them. Flying birds also get good effective exercise which is vital for them to be
strong, healthy birds. Parrots are very different from the domesticated creatures kept as pets. Even
captive-bred birds remain essentially ‘wild’ animals with a vital need to perform as many of their natural
behaviors as possible each day of their lives. This should include daily periods of flight, even if this is
only indoors. With this in mind, parrot owners should be prepared to adapt their homes, at least to a
certain degree, to the bird’s needs, instead of adapting the bird, by clipping it and disabling it for their
convenience. Flight is something to be encouraged in parrots; not something which should be denied the
birds almost by default. By teaching birds some basic flight requests, carers can have all the ‘control’
they need of their flying bird, and the bird will be fitter, stronger and healthier in many ways.

Greg Glendell BSc (hons) works as a full-time companion parrot behavior consultant in Somerset in the
UK. He has written several books on companion parrot care.

For further information contact Greg at:
or see:

(Originally published in Parrots magazine, UK, 2008)




Sleep Time for the English Budgie :     (Top

Many people choose to cover their bird’s cage at night. While it’s not necessary, there are a few possible benefits. First, it means your bird is less likely to wake up at the crack of dawn and wake up everybody else in the house. Birds are very light-responsive: they sleep when it’s dark and wake up when there’s light. If you cover their cage, it gives you more control over this. It also allows the birds to sleep in a little bit — many of them probably aren’t going to bed when the sun sets, since they live in a house with electricity!

Training – It is also a great tool for training. When your pet bird is being bad or gets a little uncontrollable , Give him 10 to 20 minuets of time out in a covered cage. I have had really good success with doing this. A firm NO command and then a quick trip to a covered cage for a few minuets will (may) teach your bird in a harmless way that his actions are not acceptable. English Budgerigars are very smart, this form of training works.

 Covering the cage can also help reduce “night frights.” Night frights are when something scares the bird at night and they end up flapping all over the cage in the dark, potentially hurting themselves. Some birds, like cockatiels, are particularly prone to this. Pet birds cannot see well in the dark, so things like the moving shadows in a dark room can really scare them. Usually you won’t even know what it was that scared them. If you cover them, that eliminates most of those sorts of visual stimuli.

You might consider placing a small nightlight near your bird’s cage. If your bird does have a night fright, she can use that light to see her back to her sleeping perch.

Sleep is a good way to monitor your bird’s health. English Budgerigars should get an average of 9 to 12 hours of sleep each day. If she is sleeping on the floor of the cage, that’s frequently a sign of poor health. Birds, being prey animals, are very good at hiding their symptoms. By the time they’re willing to sleep exposed on the ground, they are often feeling very bad indeed. A bird on the floor may be a female about to lay an egg, but if it is, that should become apparent fairly quickly. If your bird is sleeping on the floor for long periods of time, it’s time to get them to the veterinarian.

It’s not at all uncommon for birds to nap throughout the day at different spots in the cage or on their owners. As long as your bird has active periods and seems alert and responsive when they are awake, she is most likely just fine.

Beak Grinding
Many birds will do a thing called “beak grinding” as they settle down to sleep. This is where they rub the two mandibles of their beak together, producing a soft sound almost like teeth grinding. New owners are sometimes concerned by this, but this is actually a good sign. Birds do this when they are very content and relaxed, which is why they tend to do it right before dozing off. Hearing my cockatiels beak-grind on my shoulder is one of my favorite sounds in the world, because I know it means they are very happy to be with me.

Top 10 Bird Killers          (Top)    Update November 2014: Click here to view the latest updated list below in a photo format.

Although we all like to think that we always have our bird’s best interests at heart, it is impossible to foresee every single household danger that our avian friends can get into. But it is wise to be aware of the most common dangers to our pet birds, so that we can avoid those situations. And, of course, it is an excellent idea to have a well-stocked first-aid kit on hand at all times, in the event that a mishap does occur. Be sure to discuss emergency plans with your avian vet and have a list of emergency phone numbers available.

Many birds die before their time as a result of mistakes made by their owners, either unintentionally or through ignorance. Learn about the top ten reasons birds die, and just perhaps, this information may save some birds’ lives.

1. Water   (Top)  

Deprivation of water can also have fatal results. The most common reason for this happening is due to a water bottle malfunctioning. If the delivery tube’s ball sticks, or if a bird stuffs an object into the tube, effectively blocking it, a bird will be deprived of water. If an owner doesn’t check that all water bottles are working every day, or if it is not noticed that the water level in the bottle is not going down, it may be days before an owner recognizes a problem. Rarely, the unthinkable happens and a bird’s water bowl may go unfilled for days, or the bird may empty the bowl, which goes unnoticed, resulting in fatal dehydration. Most birds will die if water is withheld for three days, unless lots of moisture-laden foods are fed.

2. Unclipped Wings   (Top)  

If a bird is to be allowed freedom outside of its cage, its wings should be properly clipped. This means that it can glide gracefully to the ground. If the wings are not clipped correctly, or if several primary wing feathers have grown back unbeknownst to the owner, an alarmed bird may end up flying erratically around the house, or worse, launching itself to the top of a tree! Some avian vets actually have a name for birds that have had run-ins with ceiling fans (shredded tweet!) If a bird is frightened, it may mistake a window or mirror for open spaces, and end up with a concussion. Contrary to popular belief, birds RARELY break their necks with such an injury.

Birds indoors have flown into pots of boiling water, open commodes, windows, mirrors, fondue pots and an active fireplace, to name just a few of the household hazards.

3. Toxic Fumes       (Top

Non-stick cookware and other household items possessing a non-stick surface made from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) can be toxic to birds. If overheated (temperatures over 530 degrees F), the gas released is extremely dangerous to birds and can result in death. However, even with normal usage, some fumes may also be released, so non-stick cookware, drip pans, irons, ironing board covers and heat-lamps with a PTFE coating should not be used around birds.

Passive inhalation of cigarette, cigar and pipe smoke can cause chronic eye problems, skin irritation and respiratory disease. Birds that live in homes with smokes may develop coughing, sneezing, sinusitis and conjunctivitis, which may resolve spontaneously, if the bird is moved to a location free of smoke. Some birds exposed to chronic second-hand smoke will develop secondary bacterial infections, as well, which can prove fatal.

Many common disinfectants and household cleaning agents release fumes that can be toxic or fatal to birds. Chlorine bleach, phenols and ammonia can all have dangerous vapors that can cause irritation, toxicosis and even death.

Common household aerosol products, such as perfume, deodorant and hairspray, can cause respiratory problems in birds. They may cause severe inflammation and difficulty breathing, and after large or direct exposure, death can occur. Any pump spray or aerosol using a propellant can be dangerous to birds, and these should not be used around birds.

Natural gas leaks can cause sudden death in birds. Any type of heater, used improperly or with inadequate ventilation can be deadly to birds. Carbon monoxide, an odorless, colorless and tasteless gas, can also be fatal to birds. Anyone with pet birds should have a working carbon monoxide monitoring device in the home, preferably in the room where the birds are kept. Second-hand smoke from marijuana can also cause severe depression and regurgitation. Burning foods, overheated cooking oils and smoke from a fire can cause fatal inhalations.

4. Trauma   (Top)  

A bird with properly clipped wings may develop the “cute” habit of climbing down off of its cage to seek out favorite family members. Below is a small list of some items that can cause trauma.

A. Stepping on the bird
B. Sliding glass doors
C. Vacuum Cleaners
D. Recliners
E. Couch Cushions
F. Laundry Baskets
G. Getting in or behind the washer or dryer
H. Getting in, under or behind refrigerators and freezers
* Plus many other household items.

5. Other Animals        (Top

Birds should never be left unsupervised outside of the cage, especially if other animals, including other birds, share the same house. Even if a pet dog or cat has acted completely trustworthy around a pet bird, it should not be trusted. Many birds have died as a result of another housepet either “playing” too exuberantly with a bird, or from the pet biting or stepping on the pet bird.

Birds may also injure each other. Parrotlets and Lovebirds are notorious for nipping the toes of birds housed in neighboring cages. Toes are the most commonly injured body part, and bleeding may be serious, and even fatal. Especially with the onset of puberty, birds that previously got along together, may begin fighting, with fatal results.

Any animal bite should be considered extremely serious, possibly life-threatening. The bacteria found in the saliva and the mouth of a mammal can cause fatal septicemia (infection in the bloodstream) of a bird in very short order. Cat bites should be considered the most dangerous, as the Pasteurella bacteria commonly found in the feline mouth, are extremely hazardous to birds. Even a simple puncture by a tooth can result in a fatal infection. Scratches from claws are also extremely dangerous, as the risk of infection is very real.

6. Toxic Food or Plants   (Top)  
Please also review my list of toxic foods in the diet section of this page.

There are several foods that are very toxic to birds. Chocolate is digested in a different way by birds, and the metabolite, theobromide, is very toxic to them. Baker’s chocolate and dark chocolate are the most toxic, and milk chocolate, although less toxic, is still a forbidden food for birds. Caffeine is also metabolized differently in birds, which also results in toxic compounds. There is some data that indicates that some varieties of avocado are toxic to birds, with perhaps the skin and pit being the most dangerous parts. Although unlikely to kill a bird, to be on the safe side, avocado should not be fed to birds. Onions can cause a fatal hemolytic anemia in dogs and cats, but since birds’ red blood cells have a nucleus, this may protect the cells from the severe injury that occurs in other species. However, until this topic is studied, it is best to not feed onions to birds.

Some houseplants can be toxic, even fatal, to birds. Lists of potentially toxic plants have been published often in Bird Talk. Outdoor plants can also kill birds.

7. Hand-Feeding Mistakes        (Top

There is no doubt in my mind that many a baby bird has expired as a result of hand-feeding mishaps. Unweaned baby birds should not be sold or given to inexperienced hand-feeders for this reason. It is not necessary for a baby bird to be hand-fed by the family purchasing it in order for it to become “bonded” to them. Budgies are routinely tamed down as pets once they have fledged by the parents, and this can also occur with larger birds fed-out by the parents. Baby birds can also be hand-fed by the aviculturist, and be visited by the new owners to allow the babies to become accustomed to their new families. Weaned birds can be sold to owners, and they will settle in with their new families in no time. So, there is no reason for a baby to be fed by an inexperienced owner.

There are many different things that can go wrong during the hand-rearing process, including feeding formula improperly (mixed incorrectly, stored incorrectly, fed at wrong temperature), delivering the food improperly (dirty utensils, forcing food into the baby resulting in aspiration pneumonia, injuring the mouth or crop with feeding equipment), poor husbandry techniques (keeping the baby at the incorrect temperature, not practicing good hygiene, indiscriminate use of antibiotics), just to mention just a few potential problems.

Most commonly, babies are kept at the incorrect temperature, or the food is fed at too low of a temperature, resulting in a slowed down gastrointestinal tract, which can be fatal, if not corrected in time. If the baby is forced to eat, it may struggle and end up inhaling the baby formula, resulting in aspiration pneumonia. If a large amount of food is inhaled, the baby will die immediately, but if a small amount of food ends up in the respiratory tract, the aspiration pneumonia may result in the baby suffering for days, trying desperately to breathe, before it dies.

Infection is common in hand-feeding babies that are not cared for properly. Bacterial infection, fungal infection and polyoma virus infection are the most common infectious diseases in baby birds, and all can prove fatal.

Hand-feeding is best left up to those with experience.

8. Owner-Caused Diseases   (Top)  

Although it is fun to take baby birds to bird shows, swap meets and club meetings, it is very dangerous for the babies. Infections can spread to baby birds, even through the air, even if the owner is diligent about not allowing any direct contact with the babies. Many diseases can prove fatal to babies, especially polyoma virus. Adult birds are also at risk from exposure to other birds from the same sources, as well as from trips to the pet store, as well. Having parties where owners bring their birds can also spread disease. Unfortunately, a bird can carry a disease, and be able to pass it to others without appearing ill. Proventricular dilatation disease (PDD), chlamydiosis (psittacosis), Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD) and pacheco’s disease may all be spread by birds that MAY appear healthy in physical appearance. Giardia, a one-celled protozoal organism, can be spread by a bird ingesting food or water contaminated by the droppings of an infested bird. Remember that we don’t even have tests for some of the diseases that birds can have! Deliberately exposing birds to other birds, even if they have been vet checked, is dangerous and should be avoided, or kept to an absolute minimum.

Owners must understand that it is dangerous for pet birds to have direct contact with their owner’s mouths. We carry bacteria and fungi that can cause serious infection, or even death, in our birds. Birds should never be kissed with an open mouth, nor should birds be allowed any contact with the owner’s teeth, tongue, lips or saliva.

9. Heat Exposure      (Top

Exotic birds, while from warm, tropical climates, cannot tolerate excessive heat. Children, dogs, cats, other pets and birds should never be left in a car during warmer weather, even with the windows partially lowered. Temperatures inside a car can rapidly reach lethal levels.

Heat can also kill birds in a more insidious way. An owner may place a cage outdoors in the shade in the morning, for fresh air, and as the sun slides across the sky during the day, the bird may end up in the direct sun by the afternoon. With no place to escape the sun, a bird may rapidly develop hyperthermia and die. An overheated bird will begin panting, and with panting, will also begin getting dehydrated. Most birds suffering from hyperthermia will try to get out of the sun, and may try to bathe to cool off, if possible. If the bird’s body temperature rises high enough, it will seizure and die. Hyperthermia can also occur if a bird’s cage is relocated by a window, with no shade to escape the sun. Hyperthermia can also occur in baby birds, if a brooder is set at too high of a temperature, or if the brooder malfunctions.

10. Sleeping With Birds   (Top)  

Birds should sleep in their cages. Birds that are allowed to sleep in bed with their owners are at serious risk for suffocation or life-threatening trauma. Even though an owner has slept with the pet bird for a while, there is always the chance that the bird will get lodged between the waterbed and frame, smothered under a pillow, or be rolled over on during sound sleep. It has happened all too often to allow such a risk. Although it is fun to read or watch television in bed or on the sofa with a pet bird, if there is a chance that you might doze off, it is time to return the bird to its cage.

Although we cannot foresee every possible accident or problem that can occur with our pet birds, by knowing the top ten bird killers, you can avoid the most common dangers.

UPDATE – Top 10 – November 2014
I ran across the below updated photo list on a website that invited us to share the list.
The below list was found on an



Leg Banding Or Leg Rings

There are a number of reasons why identification of a bird is important. These include proof of ownership, governmental requirements in some states, identification of lost or stolen birds, and tracking of birds for breeding purposes (very important). The ability to identify a bird also acts as a deterrent to smugglers and the illegal bird trade. Thus it has a
positive impact on saving birds in their natural environments.

The most widely accepted means of identification of birds today is the leg band. Microchipping and DNA fingerprinting are alternative methods which are gaining in
popularity. Many people prefer these newer methods for a variety of reasons. However at this time, the leg band is the most used method.


Closed bands are found on birds which have been banded as babies. This usually means that they are captive bred by a breeder.
Closed bands are circular and seamless. They are made of stainless steel, aluminum or plastic and come in a variety of colors and sizes . The band is placed on a baby
bird, about 9 to 14 days old, by sliding the band over the foot to the leg portion. As the bird grows, the feet become too large for the band to fall off. Removal can
only be accomplished by cutting the band off. This permanency makes closed bands a more reliable method of identifying a bird than open bands which can be opened or removed.

An open band is a piece of metal which has been bent into the form of a
circle. The ends of the band do not meet and are separated by a space to enable them to be placed on a mature bird’s leg. After placement, the ends are then pinched
together with a special tool until they meet. Open bands can be used on older birds whose feet are too large for banding with a closed band.

In my aviary I only use open bands. I really like the fact that I can decide when the best time is to band the bird. If i were using closed bands I would have to make sure that I put the bands on the babies at exactly the right time otherwise it is to late and the bird can not be banded. With open bands I am able to band the babies when the time is right and when my work schedule permits it. Another reason I like open bands is that they can be removed. From my experience over the years I have found that most of my customers just simply don’t like the bands on the birds. With open bands the Veterinarian can easily remove the band or the owner can remove it very carefully. It is very important to me as a breeder to know exactly what my birds family background and bloodline is, because of this I band all of my babies. This allows me to know for sure at later dates what birds can be paired with each other. It would be impossible to keep track of the family bloodlines without bands. Open bands should be checked every few months to make sure they are closed tightly. Over time the gap in between the band can slowly get larger allowing a bird to maybe get caught on a cage wire and not be able to get lose. For this reason i recommend that you check your bands monthly to make sure their is no gap in between the band.

For larger birds I would recommend using only closed bands. Larger birds are stronger and sometimes are able to remove the open bands. So if you are breeding larger birds you will want to order and use closed bands. Smaller birds such as budgies or parrotlets are not strong enough to remove the bands so I find it much easier for my record keeping to use the open bands on smaller birds.

Ordering Bands
Many different companies offer bands. Also a lot of bird clubs sell them.
I buy my leg bands from L & M Leg Bands. (909) 882-4649

L & M offers customers engraving which includes: a buyer id code (up to three characters such as letters, numbers or symbols); a consecutive series of numbers so each
band has a unique number for record-keeping; their state or Canadian province abbreviation; and lastly, the year. With the exception of some states, this is all
optional. L & M is not imprinted on their bands.

Those interested in breeding birds need a reliable method of identifying them. Keeping the gene pools diverse, pairing unrelated birds, breeding for traits or
mutations are all important issues. Band numbers are used by breeders to identify and keep records on their birds. Use of colored bands also enables a breeder to more
easily distinguish among multiple birds in an aviary without disturbing the birds. Breeders buying older birds can trace the origins of the birds to ensure that
potential pairings are unrelated or to identify certain traits. Bands are also an inexpensive means of identification.


Bands are one method of identifying a lost or stolen bird. No matter how careful bird owners and breeders are, the unthinkable sometimes happens and a bird flies
away. It may be found by a conscientious person who would like to return the bird to its owner. If the bird is wearing a band, the task becomes much easier. Many bands
are traceable and a finder (with help from a pet store, veterinarian or breeder) may be able to trace the bird and its owner. If a finder advertises that a bird has
been found, the true owner can prove his ownership of this particular bird if he has the band number.

If a bird has been stolen, the thief will often remove the band to prevent discovery. However, there are documented cases where birds have been recovered years later
due to identification of the leg band. Removal of the band by a thief, decreases the value of the bird and some thieves take their chances. Reputable breeders and pet
stores will question the history of an unbanded bird. Anyone buying a bird as a pet should also question any bird which is not banded.


There are some bird owners and veterinarians who routinely remove the band from every bird they own or treat, believing that the band may be a cause of future injury.
There are fears that a bird can get hung up in its cage by the band or that a bird will pick and chew at the band and its feet. All cages should be inspected for
safety whether a bird is banded or not. Any exposed cage wire ends or other hazards should be removed. Experience has shown that if a band is of the proper size, most
birds will not pick. There are instances where open bands have not been correctly closed , allowing thin objects to slide into the opening. This can be corrected by
closing the band properly.

However, there will be instances when a band should be removed. It may be too small. There may be swelling, loss of feathers, picking or some medical reason. Consult
your veterinarian if you have concerns.

Howard Voren, noted aviculturist, has written of a case in which a vet removed the bands of a newly purchased pair. DNA sexing later showed that the birds were not a
male/female pair. He writes that “The seller refused to take the birds back because the birds could no longer be positively identified, nor resold as domestically bred
to a skeptical buyer. The vet had by his actions turned the birds into damaged goods.”

Whether imported or domestic, open or closed banded, the leg band carries letters and numbers which identify the bird. Import bands are traceable by contacting the US fish and game or a local import station. Domestic bands purchased from bird associations and some commercial vendors are also traceable but it can be very hard because we have no nation wide system or data base. You have to contact each band company or bird club one at a time and ask them to chek their records for the information you are looking for.

It is difficult, and sometimes impossible, to trace a band which does not have an organization code on it. The best course is to contact the major band manufacturers.
They have thousands of customers, so it is unlikely that the band buyer code would be unique. But they may be able to provide the names of a few breeders using this
code, which is a starting point. The more information which has been engraved on the band, the better the chances of tracing it.

Adding a leg band to a bird – CLOSED BANDING

#1 the band is slipped over 3 toes
#2 the 4th toe is bent backwards and the band slides over it.
#3 The closed band is on the bird – completed.
Note: This must be done when the bird is very young around 9 to 14 days old.
After this time has passed you can not use a closed band.


10 Things your bird needs from you   (Top

The below information was available from for download.
Great information every bird owner should follow.

Splayed Legs:   (Top

LuckyFeathers – White Paper Article   (Top
Splayed Legs
By on January 3, 2012   ()

Caring for a Bird With Splayed Legs  

Most birds have no trouble flying, climbing around their cages or perching on their favorite swings. But every now and then a bird is born with splayed legs. The bird may be unable to stand up straight, walk, perch or move around easily. You may find that the legs lean more to the sides than underneath the body, and this is referred to as splayed legs (sometimes called spraddle legs).

There are several causes of splayed legs in birds. The mother could have sat on the baby too heavily or too long, and the force and pressure caused the legs to bend and grow outward instead of underneath the body. Birds need sunlight to produce vitamins, and baby birds kept in nestboxes in dark corners may suffer from a vitamin deficiency that affects their growth.

There are bird foods that supplement this vitamin need, but not all provide enough nutrition. A lack of nutrition or supplements is another reason attributed to splayed legs. In addition to diet, not enough or incorrect bedding in the nestbox can add a risk of the legs being splayed. In fact, veterinarian Ron Hines, DMV, PhD, argues that this is far more likely to be the cause than a vitamin deficiency.

Genetics can also be a factor. This is most commonly seen with inbreeding; unless corrected, it can continue with future offspring. Other times a parent bird might notice the baby is different and refuse to care for it or place more emphasis on the other babies.

If you do not have a bird with splayed legs, you can start working on prevention in young birds now. The feed should have a good amount of calcium and protein; check the feed you normally buy to make sure it is sufficient for the growth of the birds.

If you provide vitamin D3 as a supplement, check the amount and frequency you provide it so make it is enough for healthy growth. You can also ground up Tums and sprinkle it over their food if other forms are not available.

Treatment  (Top)     
Babies and younger birds respond best to treatment since they are still growing. Older or fully developed birds may not be able to be treated, but you can consult with your avian veterinarian to determine what course of action (if any) can still be taken.

If you can determine that the weight of the parents on the baby is causing the legs to be pushed outward, add more bedding to address this problem. Is the nesting container too slippery to be grasped by the young bird? Fix this. Are the birds getting enough sunlight? Consider relocating the cage or providing a lamp that produces sunlight properties. Diet is also very important for growth; double-check that your feed and supplements are sufficient if you can’t find any other reason for the condition.

There are several creative ways to treat splayed legs:

•Pipe cleaners can be bent in a figure-8 shape around the bird’s legs to bring them closer together.
•Placing the bird’s legs in a small cup so they are straight underneath him can help straighten the legs.
•Use vet tape (tape or bandages that stick to themselves) to wrap around the legs and bring them closer together.
•Sticks or straight objects attached to the legs to straighten them can also be used, but be careful that the materials do not scratch the baby’s legs.
•Sponges can be used with holes cut out for the legs at the desired angle. This solution can provide a soft and safe alternative to correcting the bird’s legs. Unused makeup sponges can be cut to fit for this purpose.

Splayed leg chick improved

Birds with splayed legs that can still move around, eat and be active can live normal and healthy lives. They may need additional or special perches, their nails clipped more regularly and extra care given to the pressure points caused on their body in different areas. These pets can still lead a happy life, so check with your veterinarian before you start any treatment. The younger the bird the better, so don’t delay treatment. 


LuckyFeathers – White Paper Article    (Top of page)

How to tape up the legs     

*This is just one of several possible treatments (other treatments). As always check with your vet, do research online, check youtube.com for videos showing you more information. Doing it wrong or not knowing exactly what you are doing can cause more damage.

See photos below: Tape on legs Curad 1 inch paper tape. Cut in half, Place one behind the left leg and wrap the end around the front of the ankle, then place a spacer piece of tape in the middle of the two legs, then wrap the other end of the tape from the back of the leg around the front and place another spacer piece of tape in the center. Be sure there is a slight space where the tape wraps around the ankle part of the leg. Chick should be able to stand.

Click Photos for larger view:

#1 #2 #3 #4







Articles – Resources – Links

I have links to many great articles about birds, Illness, Disease and bird care on my Links Page.
So many great things to read are located on other websites. I have put together a list of resources on my links page for some of these things.  Click Here



Budgerigar Associations , Clubs and Membership Sites  (Top)

Budgerigar Association of America  
Founded in 1999, The Budgerigar Association of America (BAA) is a national club dedicated to fun of keeping, care, breeding and exhibition of English Budgerigars (budgies or parakeets).

The American Budgerigar Society   abs1.org  abs1.com abs1.net
Your best source of information about keeping, breeding and exhibiting budgerigars.

The Budgerigar Society    
What does it mean to be a budgie fancier

Tri-State Budgerigar Society
Tri-State Budgerigar Society (TSBS) is a club dedicated to the care, breeding … The club is affiliated with the Budgerigar Association of America

Spangled Budgerigar Breeders Association
Welcome to the homepage of the SBBA in the UK, the Association for the breeding and improvement of the Spangle variety of Budgerigar.

Midland Budgerigar Association
Midland Budgerigar Association – UK for Exhibition Budgerigars.

Toowoomba Budgerigar Association Inc  
Toowoomba Budgiegar Assoication is a non-profit organisation. The club was put togeather to assist poeple who are interested in the breeding, showing or just have budgiegars.

Clubs, Organisations & Societies Links   (Top)


British Clubs, Organisations & Societies   (Top)



Australian Clubs, Organisations & Societies   (Top)






Visit my other bird care websites listed below.

All about Linnies

All about Pacific Parrotlets

All about English Budgies

All about Green Cheek Conures

All about Green Rump Parrotlets

All about my parrotlet seed mix

All about the rare Spectacled Parrotlet

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